Well CONGRATULATIONS! So far, it sounds great...geez, all
those light bulbs and the voltage remains above what it was
at the beginning and with the motor running....incredible!!
If you haven't sent this to John yet, I will with this
email...he'll love it...but the true test is to have it
power a load for a month or so with the battery voltage
being monitored....
So far, you certainly seem to have something going on...but
that's not the real proof just yet, but as close as I've
heard of...if you have some photos I'd be happy to post them
on a page along with your writeup...or if you post them, let
us all know the URL so we can both study it and pass it
around to the other mavericks and mavens...
Excellent...
> Robert wrote:
>
> Hello all, I really did not want to report this to the list, because of the
> doubts some of you will have. I thought about emailing John Bedini first with
> these results, but I know he wants people to build this motor, so I did not.
> So I have decided to report the results and see what happens. I will not
> argue about it..period. Build your own and see the results. I have worked
> with this motor day and night..It is amazing what this motor will do.
> The secret is in the timing of the pulses to the coils. When this is
> correct, it will accept a very large load. In fact..it seems the more the
> better.
> The RPM of the motor will accelerate to 3000 plus when the timing is correct.
> Remember this is NOT the roller skate motor. This the "Adams type test motor
> for energy recovery" on John's website.
http://www.nidlink.com/~john1/idea.html
> I tried to stay as close to his building requirements as I could. The only
> thing different about mine, is it is horizionaly mounted. When the motor
> is up and running it is pulling about 120 MA. I have yet put a load on
> the 5/8 all thread shaft that the disk is turning.
> No need to yet.. I put in a 4ah gel battery to run the motor, I was using
> a 7ah. Voltage at startup was 12.35.
> When running, voltage is 12.60 and up. The voltage will vary up and down,
> the spikes on the scope will be pointed down. If the spikes start mixing
> up and down, voltage will drop. If they remain down on the scope.. hook
> up a load to the 4ah battery.
> It loves a load. I hooked up (6) 12 volt bulbs that go in taillights in
> a car, after trying one at a time, and the voltage dropped to 11.50
> volts and shot back to 12.80 and remained there and powered these lights.
> The motor never slows down or shows any heat in the coils. I then took
> a 1 farad cap and charged it numerous times while it was running and
> powering these lights.
> I was sitting there discharging the cap into a 12 volt motor, and
> constantly doing all this, then decided to put the 12 volt motor in line.
> Folks..it pulled it all. The voltage was running from 12.25 to 12.80.
> If I had, had a headlight bulb I would have tried it. Which I will do
> tomorrow. I dont expect anyone to believe this, as I probably wouldnt
> either. But when you set the timing on your motor, take this one
> hint..you must pulse the stator coils BEFORE the magnet gets to the
> stator core. Dont seem right does it..
> When I shut the motor down the voltage was 12.35 on the battery after
> all that testing.
>
> Regards, Robert H. Calloway
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