Text: Chapter 11 WHEN THINGS GO WRONG "Do not over-analyse or over-experiment. This will destroy the experiment and its creative Orgonomic force." Dr. Wilhelm Reich Well, my dear reader, you are reading this section for any of a number of reasons, some are: You always read a book or notes from cover to cover before you start a construction project. Great, good idea, read on. You are an armchair scientist and you are reading this information to see how it fits in with your own pet opinions on the subject. Good luck and I hope, if you find something to contribute, you will do so freely and in brotherly love. You are reading this chapter because you have made a cell by other methods and are looking for a quick fix. I would strongly recommend that you read and absorb all the previous chapters, as you may have a borderline cell and it may be better to construct a new cell. You are here because you have followed exactly, all my suggestions and your car will not run on the cell. In the above, I am only interested in reader D. Approach to the problem All problems, irrespective of complexity, can be solved in a methodical, rational fashion. If it looks insurmountable, break it down into convenient smaller sections that you can cope with. Have this smaller section cover one topic only. Make sure that you have a working knowledge of the topic. Take your time, and have somebody else to talk with regarding your chosen solution and approach. It is important that you change one variable at a time only! If you change variables in a haphazard method or without recording your observations, at the end of the day, you will be worse off than when you started. I would suggest that you break up your problem into the following topics. Fault finding topics 1. The water. 1a. Cell maintenance. 2. The cell construction. 3. The charging operation. 4. Cell-to-car interface. 5. Car modifications. 6. Geographical location. 7. The Y factor. 1. The water The single most common problem that you will encounter is the water. As Joe remarked on many occasions, the "water goes bad". Not a scientific explanation, but well said. So, what are some of the problems with the water? A. Is the water dead or polluted right from the start? If you collected, transported and stored the water personally, you should know its history. Re-read Chapter 8. If you still doubt your water, try the following. Orgone accumulates in water, and as such, when you transfer the water out of the cell, you take the charge with it. Therefore, if you, or an acquaintance, have a good, ie. stage 3 cell, the water can now be substituted into the suspect cell. On now powering up the suspect cell, within 1 minute your cell should be at stage 3. If the suspect cell does not come up to stage 3, the water is not at fault! The above is by far the easiest way to test a suspect cell. Unfortunately, you will need another cell or external help. Note. Do not leave the charged water outside its cell for longer than 1 hour as it is not breeding. I have found that when I use water that I have stored for longer than about 6 months, on using it to fill new cells, I get a very light off-white residue in the sump of the cell. All else works okay, ie. a normally breeding stage 3 cell. My 20 litre Pyrex flasks are stored in the garage and are exposed to cars, noise, fluorescent lights, music, etc. I have now modified the flask caps so that the water can breathe. Also the flasks have been made "light-tight" with a jacket made of purple felt. This may help. I have found that the "old" juvenile water can be reactivated by various forms of water modifiers. I use a special water vortex device and have found that a cell that did not want to go stage 2 for over a week, went stage 3 in 2 days! This is great news for people who have to travel considerable distances to obtain their water. Of course, the bad news is you need a "gismo" like I use, or you may want to try various commercial structured waters to find one that works. I will again say that it is far easier to let Mother Nature do the work for you, rather than you outlaying hundreds of dollars with no guarantees. I mentioned the above in case you were already using a water "modifier" for health reasons. If so, give it a try, you have nothing to lose. B. Has the pH of your water changed? Simply run your pH test on the cell water. The reading should be the same. If not, either the cylinders or the insulators are breaking down and reacting with the water and electrolyte. Make sure that you followed charging, insulator and cylinder material type recommendations. C. Is the water clear? As in B., the cylinders or insulators are breaking down, or the cell has gone into a base matter creation mode. As this topic is highly controversial and not pertinent to this subject, your only option is to completely dismantle, polish and clean the cell and/or replace the insulators. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages as per Chapter 9. D. Is there any residue in the sump? As in B. and C. above. E. Are the stage 3 breeding indicators behaving the same? Read Chapter 9 and make sure that the behaviour of the bubbles and meniscus is the same, especially the long term bubble retention. Again, if all else fails, try the voltage check. F. Have you changed locations and the cell is now sitting in a low density Orgone strip? Make sure that the cell is at stage 3. Read Chapter 9. G. Have you accidentally shorted out the cell or reversed polarity to it? See if it goes back to stage 3 if you apply power to it for 1 minute. If not dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9. H. Have you allowed the seed to die? Read Chapter 9. Go through stage 1, stage 2 and stage 3 processes. The cell may go to stage 2 or even stage 3 within 3 minutes. I. Has the cell fallen over at any stage? Try a 1 minute charge and see if the cell goes to stage 3. If not, dismantle, polish and clean all components. Fill with fresh juvenile water. Go through charge stages in Chapter 9. 1a. Cell maintenance I have found after a cell has been in operation for about 6 months, although there are no external indications of malfunction, ie. the cell is happily breeding, it is a good idea to do the equivalent of an oil change and grease. You may find one or more of the following: There is a light deposit on the cylinders, particularly the outside of the 1 inch and 2 inch. The cylinders may have sagged from the vibration, ie. they are not flat on the top horizontal alignment. If rubber insulators are used, you will find that they have developed a set. Some of the insulators, particularly the inner top ones, may have a light white or grey deposit on them. There may be a slight suspension or colloid towards the bottom of the cell. There may be slight indications of a brown sediment on top of the water. The cell metal parts may have become magnetised. The lower insulators for the bolt may have shrunk and could be weeping. The electrical connections to the cell may be loose or corroded. The compression fitting for the aluminium pipe may be loose. The short piece of rubber or neoprene hose to the blanking plug may have aged. The cures for the above are self explanatory. The only difficult one is if the cell has become magnetised. You may be able to degauss the cell, or at worst, you may have to have the offending cylinder replaced or heat treated. After you demagnetise your cell, find a better location for it, or it will only happen again! I do a regular 6 month service on my cells. The steps I perform are as follows: I pour out the charged water into a 5 litre glass container and put it in a cool dark area. Obviously the glass cylinder is clean and only used for your Joe cell work! Remember, you have approximately 1 hour to replace the charged water back into a seeding and breeding cell. I next dismantle the cell and clean all surfaces with mild acetic acid. I find that it is not necessary to repolish the cylinders, but you may do so if it makes you feel better. I rotate any rubber insulators 180 degrees so as to use a fresh surface with no set. I lubricate my bolt and associated insulators with Vaseline and reassemble the cell. By this time, the charged water has been sitting for about half an hour in the glass cylinder and most of the sediment has settled to the bottom of the glass container. I now pour the charged water back into the cell using a paper coffee filter to catch any sediment. I stop pouring the charged water into the cell when the first drops of water with the sediments start to leave the glass container. This water I discard or have analysed to amuse myself. I now top up the cell with fresh juvenile water and connect the cell to the power supply. Within seconds you will see a fine white cloud develop on top of the water. This is the residue of the acetic acid that you used to clean the cell with. I remove this simply by wiping the top of the water surface with a paper towel. Within 1 minute your cell will be back at stage 3. That¹s it, you have just completed your 6 month service. Note. I will repeat again in case you have forgotten, that all water, containers, funnel, etc. must have only juvenile water used in the cleaning or transferring of water for the cell maintenance. It requires a very small quantity of tap water that has been "enhanced" by good old mankind to kill the cell. Don¹t blame me if you have to start at stage 1 again by being lazy. 2. The cell construction Needless to say, you should have followed the cell construction chapters to the letter. If you did not, you obviously know how to make a different type of cell, and these notes will not be 100% relevant, or you have chosen to be creative, frugal, haphazard, or slap happy at the wrong time. I repeat, you are not making a toaster! You are trying to induce the life force to work for you. You cannot capture the life force as in a cage. It will enter and exit as it sees fit. It can penetrate all materials! If the cell was working at stage 3 and now will not work. A1. A common problem is that the cell cylinders have moved due to rough handling, vibration, or the wrong diameter insulators. The fix is a dismantle and re-alignment. Make sure that your hands are clean! A2. Another common problem is the covering of the cylinders and insulators with various residues. This can be seen on the dismantled cell as an easily removable film on the cylinders and insulators. In this case, treat as a dead cell and dismantle, polish and clean all components after finding the cause of the problem. The usual causes are wrong welding material or flux, wrong cylinder material type, wrong insulator material type, or water problems as in section 1. above. Fill with fresh juvenile water and start at stage 1. A3. The cell material has been magnetised by locating the cell near starter cables or other high current-carrying wiring, eg. Hi-Fi wiring, fog lamp or other types of ancillary lights' wiring, winch wiring, etc. In this case, find the magnetised component or components with your test magnet and replace, heat treat or de-magnetise the affected components. A hot under-bonnet location will cause similar problems. After fixing the cell, relocate the cell or the offending items. A4. The insulators or the cylinders are eaten away to some degree. You will pick this up in the discolouration of the water. If you followed my instructions, this will not occur. The problem is incompatible steel or insulators with the water electrolyte combination. In any case, treat the cell as dead, replace faulty components, etc. as in A2. If the cell never worked at stage 3. B1. The cylinder material type. As mentioned in Chapter 6, the material that you use is critical in your early learning stages. All 316L is not the same! Re-read Chapter 6. B2. The cell cylinder dimension is wrong. Re-read Chapters 6 and 7. The cylinders must be level at the critical chamber separation area which is formed by the tops of the internal cylindrical tubes. Re-check that the cylinders are level. You should see no light when measuring with a straight edge. B3. The cylinder finish. As the top and bottom cuts are finished in a lathe, they should be absolutely smooth, ie. no file or cutting marks. Similarly, there should not be any heat bands where the cylinders were cut. The surface of the rest of the cylinder does not have to be mirror smooth, but make sure that there are no longitudinal marks or scratches. If you followed Chapter 6, they will be okay. B4. Make sure that the welding is done as per Chapter 6. Make sure that all internal irregularities caused by the welding process are removed without causing excessive localised hot spots. B5. Make sure that all threaded couplings from the cell to the engine are metal to metal joints and the threads are not covered in sealants or Teflon tape, etc. B7. Make sure that the cell is airtight. If you apply your power source for a minute or two to the cell and block the outlet of the aluminium pipe with your finger only, you will feel the release of pressure on removal of your finger. Do not do this near flames and/or explosive gases! This will also check that your cell is not an open circuit or shorted and that it is electrolysing. B8. In B7 above, the most common electrical problems are the push fit of the ‡ inch bolt into the 1 inch tube, and the insulators between the ‡ inch bolt and the lower cell exit point. 3. The charging operation The failures can be subdivided into 3 sections: A. Failure to get to stage 1. If you cannot get the water to electrolyse at all, you have not read Chapter 9. Even blind Freddie and his dog can do this. Hang your head in shame and take up another interest! Seriously, not many things can go wrong. If your power source is putting out about 12 Volts and if you have added the electrolyte as described, then you must have some bubble activity (even tiny ones that look like a white mist) in the water. If still no bubbles in the water, connect a 12 Volt car globe of any type to the very ends of the leads that you are connecting to the cell. The lamp will light if your power source and your leads are okay. Now remove the lamp and put the positive lead to the outside surface of the cell and the negative lead to the ‡ inch bolt that connects to the 1 inch cylinder. If you still have no bubbles, the ‡ inch bolt connection to the 1 inch tube is faulty, but highly unlikely. Re-check the insulators that insulate the ‡ inch bolt from the outer container. As there is now water in the cell, you will not be able to do your insulation test but you should still read more than 10 Ohms resistance from the bolt to the casing. Be careful of misleading readings if the cell is acting as a battery, as your Ohm measurement will be useless. B. Failure to get to stage 2. By this, I mean that the cell has not seeded and remains at the electrolysis stage. This is a very common stumbling block! As explained, if the cell will not seed, the indication is there is no change in bubble size or surface tension. Boy, oh boy, I have been here many a time myself and I suggest the following: B1. The first and most common cause is the covering of the cylinders with a coating of various chemicals. In my early days, when I took the lazy way out and brazed or silver soldered my casing joints, this compound ended up all over the rest of the cell due to electrolysis. As the positive is the donor surface as well as being the outer casing, including welds, sealants, etc., this fact aggravated the plating process. B2. Another failure, and resulting contamination, was the use of the wrong type of sealant on the central insulator for the sealing of the ‡ inch bolt where it passes out through the bottom of the cell. B3. Likewise, when I decided to press fit my outer cell components, I used an automotive silicon gasket cement on the joints. This also ended up plating the whole cell. B4. If the water smells unhealthy or there is scum floating around, the water has gone bad. Replace with fresh water and go back to stage 1. B5. Check that your insulators have retained the original manufactured colours. That is, if red rubber, make sure they are still red, if silicone tubing, make sure it is still clear, etc. The insulators may be fine for stage 1 electrolysis, but may be very leaky to Orgone. B6. You, or your working area, may be detrimental to the seeding of the cell. See 6. and 7. B7. You are not covering the cell overnight and/or between experiments. As previously explained, we want to keep a very mild air seal on the cell. This is easily done by placing a lid on the test cell or by having a spare aluminium plug in the end of the hose where it fits onto the engine fitting. Again, I must repeat, DO NOT use worm drive clips on both ends of the rubber coupling sleeve. The rubber sleeve must act as a one way exit for any pressure in the cell. The internal cell pressure must remain very close to atmospheric during operation. B8. You are just too impatient! It may take 4 weeks to seed the cell! Just spend a few minutes a day with it and go and do something else. B9. You have used the wrong materials. This has already been covered. Please read 2. B10. You have used the wrong water. Ditto. Please read 1. B11. You are using the wrong charging method. Ditto. Please read 3. Note. For all problems in this section due to contamination of the cell by deposits, water or materials, dismantle the cell, polish, clean and refill with juvenile water. C. Failure to get to stage 3. This is the failure of the cell to breed. Again, to repeat, this is the failure of the cell to keep increasing the initial seed density to a greater, but still finite, Orgone energy limit. Indicators will be a lack of long term bubble and surface tension retention and an obvious non-operation or marginal operation. Usually you will get to stage 3 very soon, ie. within days of stage 2. Another way of describing the failure of running at stage 3 is that the cell is leaky to such an extent that the Orgone force cannot accumulate sufficient density for our needs. C1. The most common fault of the cell's not breeding, or insufficient breeding, is caused by marginal water, construction dimensions and materials. Please make sure that you have followed these notes to the letter. If you have modified or substituted components, etc., you obviously know something that I do not know and if your cell had worked, I would love to hear from you, but as you are reading this and if your cell is not working, I suggest you follow my instructions to the letter, or try somebody else¹s "how to build a Joe cell" book. C2. You, or your working area, may be detrimental to the cell¹s operation. Read 6. and 7. 4. Cell-to-car interface If you are looking for faults in this area, you know that your cell is at stage 3, but the engine refuses to run from the cell. A1. Outlet pipe from cell. A lot of different diameters and materials will work. I would suggest, like Joe, that you use 20 mm. aluminium pipe. Due to electrolytic action, copper will either pollute the cell, or pollute itself. The short piece of rubber or neoprene must not have any clips on the end that attaches over the blind aluminium plug. The idea is to let any pressure "burp" out, but not to let any air in. The fitting should act as a one way valve to pressure from the cell caused by the electrolytic action. The engine end of the aluminium pipe should have your Positive electrical connection secured to the pipe by means of the same short piece of hose being slipped over it. This end should have a clip to squeeze the hose and the electrical fitting to the pipe. What you are doing is providing your Positive connection at the very end of the outlet pipe. Your Negative, of course, will go to the car's body (we are presuming a modern car that has a Negative earth system). The pipe fitting to the top of the cell must be airtight without the use of sealants or Teflon tape, etc. The compression fitting will do a good job of this. Try to twist the aluminium pipe out of the compression fitting. If tight, you will not be able to budge it. Your pipe should also have some form of insulation around it to prevent contacts to the rest of the metallic parts of the car. Ideally, the cell should be similarly protected. Remember, just one short circuit and the cell is dead! A2. Electrical connections. The Positive wire coming from the end of the aluminium pipe should go via a 5 Amp fuse to your "ignition on" wiring. By this, I mean that the cell should only have the car power connected to it when the ignition is on. Some people prefer to run this wire via an off/on switch that is located in the car. When you connect your Negative to the car, it is preferable to connect it directly to the block if your earth straps from the motor or gearbox are suspect. Either way, with the ignition on, you should measure 12 Volts Positive on the cell body and 12 Volts Negative on the central bolt fitting. If not, check your wiring, fuse, any switches, etc. The most probable cause of no voltage is a blown fuse because you have shorted the cell. Find your short, replace the fuse and make sure that the cell goes to stage 3. If not, pull the cell out, clean, polish, new water, etc., ie. start again. The other most common problems are the use of sealants on the compression fitting. This is easy to find and fix. If you have 12 Volts across the cell, that does not mean necessarily that you have your 1 Amp current flow. To check this, temporarily disconnect the Negative end of your cell from the car body or motor and put your Amp meter in series with the central bolt and the car connection. You should read your 1 Amp current flow. If not, you have some high resistance connections or wiring, or the cell is faulty. As you are reading this because you know your cell is not faulty, the problem is either your aluminium pipe connection or your wiring. Locate the problem step by step, making sure that you do not short out or apply reverse polarity to the cell. As mentioned in Chapter 10, the 1 Amp is a nominal figure. At 1 Amp the cell is dissipating about 13 Watts and the cell may eventually heat up on an extended journey and a hot day. Check Chapter 10 for recommendations. A3. Cell design. If you have made a cell with the wrong taper to your cone, the Orgone will focus before it gets to the motor and the cell will work brilliantly on the bench, but it will not run the car. The only reason this has occurred is that you did not build a cell as described in these notes. A4. Cell location. Check, as previously explained, that the cell is located in a favourable location in the car. Is it in a cool place? Is it level? Is it located as far as possible from high current wiring? Is it located in a low vibration area? Not like some rocket scientist who strapped it to his engine!!! As Orgone has a vertical preference once it leaves the cell, reduce horizontal pipe runs to a minimum. A cell located in the boot, with a 4 metre run to the engine is not a great idea. Again, a non-leaky cell can run 60 metres or more into a horizontal tube, but why tempt fate? As far as the cell (but not the passenger) is concerned, for your first cell's temporary location, the passenger foot well, with a pipe through the bulkhead and a short (less than a metre) pipe to the plug located at the rear of the engine (non-V8) works well. Please note! A cell in the passenger foot area will be illegal in some areas! Note. At this point of the troubleshooting list, you know that your cell is at stage 3 and that it is connected correctly to the car. So if things are still not working, leave this area alone! Do not undo what you know is working, ie. don¹t dismantle your cell or associated connections to the car, they are okay! Leave them alone and look for problems in the only remaining areas you have not covered, ie. Sections 5, 6, and 7. Unless you keep a systematic approach to the installation and troubleshooting, you will never get the cell to run the car. 5. Car modifications For a start, I will again state the obvious. Some cars will be easier to modify than others, or more importantly, not all persons will be able to modify all cars! So unless you are masochistic and want to make your friend¹s life a misery, choose an easy car! This, of course, may not be old faithful that is sitting in your garage. You should also have followed Chapter 10 before you read this. You are reading this because you KNOW that your cell is still breeding, ie. running at stage 3, your car connections are okay and your electrical connections are okay. You have started your car on petrol and after it has warmed up, you either have turned off the electrical fuel pump, or you have turned off the fuel to, or from, the mechanical pump. Now, as the fuel is used up in the fuel bowl, or bowls, the engine falters and stops (at this stage, I am not talking about fuel injected motors). That is how I would expect you to test the changeover phase. You are really pushing your luck if you walk up to a stone dead car, remove the fuel to the engine and start cranking! I hope you have plenty of fully charged batteries! The car will either run, run erratically, or not at all.

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