Text: Final comments on charging the cell I do not recommend any form of circus type of bubble-exploding, ear-pulling showmanship. As noted elsewhere, noise and vibration are Orgone-negative. Therefore, in a negative Orgone cell like the ones I make, these explosions applied during the delicate seeding period will kill your cell! Apart from a dead cell, the chance of fire igniting other gases in the workshop and injuries to the ears, etc. makes this childish exercise highly unnecessary. I must admit that I too fell for the "go on, ignite it!" feeling. I had a cell that had been at stage 3 for 7 months. It was my favourite test cell. My hands and matches fought my brain and they won. There was a huge "ear-pulling, implosion/explosion", and yes, I killed the cell. It went back to stage 2 for 4 days. I will not do it again, just showing you that I am also human. On the plus side, my resident garage brush tail possum has not returned! Special stage 3 water (referred to in Chapter 11.) As all water we are using so far has been electrolysed, this water is not suitable for use in non-stainless steel or glass containers, but if you have to, or want to, you can use juvenile water with no electrolytes added and still charge it to stage 3. As the ion count is much lower, the water is not as conductive, ie. you cannot get as much current flow with 12 Volts as you would if you electrolysed the water. However, if you obtain a power supply of approximately 60 to 100 Volts at about 1 Amp, you will be able to charge "plain old ordinary water". The down side is the additional waiting, in some cases, over 3 weeks, and the cost of the fairly expensive power supply. The advantage, as mentioned in Chapter 11, is that you will be able to pour it into the radiator of a car with no increase in corrosion as compared to water containing acids. Miscellanea Do not at any stage short-circuit, ie. join any of the cell cylinders to each other electrically with your charging leads, wedding ring, etc. If you do, the cell will "die"! Your only option, if this occurs, is to connect the cell to your power source and see if you are still running in stage 3. If the cell does not revert to running in stage 3 mode within 1 minute, your only option is to completely dismantle the cell and re-polish, re-clean and re-charge. Huh??? You are kidding us, right??? No, I am serious, that is your only option! So do not do it, do not short out your cell! You will have similar, but not as severe, problems if you reverse your leads to the cell. On a lighter side, when the cell is running stage 3, you can tip the charged water out of the cell into a glass container and clean, adjust or maintain your now empty cell. When finished, pour the charged water back and you are back in business. Of course you can pour this charged water into other cells, or use it as you see fit, but remember, do not leave it out of the cell for periods longer than 1 hour at a time as the breeding has now stopped and you are slowly losing charge. Remember what you are dealing with. You are not making a toaster! You are dealing with the basic life force itself. As it is everywhere and penetrates all things, you cannot imprison it or capture it. If it seeds your cell, it is because it has found the "womb" that you have made, a more comfortable place than where it was before. It has entered and remained of its own free choice. Similarly, if it decides to breed for you, again it is its choice. The least that you can do is to positively interact with it. There are many accounts of cells dying due to locations and personalities involved. You have been warned! **************************************** Chapter 10 CELL CONNECTION TO MOTORS AND MOTOR MODIFICATION "The essential is to get rid of deeply rooted prejudices we often repeat without examining them." A. Michel Cell location and mounting The mounting of the cell is full of compromises, both for the cell and the occupants of the car. For least vibration and tilt, the centre of the car is the best location. For least heat accumulation, low down in the interior of the car is the best location. For least electro-magnetic disturbance, the boot is the best (unless there are CD stackers, radio gear or electric fuel pumps in the boot area). For best Orgone flow, the cell should be as close as possible to the motor, and the outlet should have only a vertical path to the blind plug. For cell servicing, it should be in the boot or a similar easy access point. To keep human interaction to the minimum, the rear bumper bar is the best location. To keep interaction with other cars to a minimum, the centre of the car is the best location. To keep the outlet pipe to a minimum length, right next to the block is the best location. To minimise interference with the car electronics, a roof location is best. As you can see, even in the brief list above, there is no one location that is ideal. The very best compromise is placing the cell in the foot-well on the passenger side, and having a hole through the bulkhead with a short pipe run to the blind plug on the block. If you choose this position, please note: This may be dangerous in an accident and thus illegal, and you must obtain approval from the related instrumentalities. The hole through the bulkhead must be gas-tight as there is a danger of lethal gases entering the occupant area. Again, the related permits are mandatory. The location of the cell may interfere with any car computer that is located in this area. The passenger may interact with the cell. It will reduce your resale values due to the hole/s. Your insurance company will have to be notified with a logical explanation for your handiwork. The second, less frowned upon location, is in a cold area of the engine compartment. This is just about impossible in a compact car, unless you have an older 6 or 8 cylinder model. That is why I have said it is better to choose a car suited to run on a Joe cell, rather than trying to run your modern 4 cylinder front wheel drive compact from it. Your chances of a successful first-up conversion of a fuel injected, variable cam timing, turbo, computer controlled and twin overhead cam compact 4 cylinder car is minimal. The mounting of the cell, once the position is chosen, is not difficult. The simplest and most permanent method is to use the half inch negative bolt as one of the fixtures for the cell. As this bolt is the negative connection, it can be directly bolted through the floor or via a convenient piece of metal plate to a suitable point in the engine compartment. The cell itself should be surrounded by an insulating material similar to a computer mouse mat or diving suit material. Around this you would have two hose clips to hold the body of the cell against some rigid part of the car. The aim is to stop the cell developing its own vibration that is additional to the vibration generated by the engine and the road conditions. All parts of the cell must be well clear of any metal parts at all times as the cell body has a positive potential on it. If you accidentally touch a charged cell body to any metal parts of the car, you will probably have to recharge the cell, and you know what a pain that can be. To summarise the above, the cell must be firmly fixed in the best possible location and protected from any accidental contact with any metal parts of the car. Any car modifications must have the approval of the relevant government bodies. NOTE. I am presuming that you have a reasonably modern car that has the negative end of the car battery connected to the bodywork, ie. a negative earth system. If you have an older positive system car, then to the best of my knowledge, you will have problems, and I suggest that you do not attempt a conversion of a positive earth system car. As most of these have gone to car heaven, there should not too many around. A good indicator is that the car runs a generator instead of an alternator, but this rule does not apply all of the time, and there are exceptions. Cell electrical connections Negative connection. The above section has mentioned that we are dealing with negative earth cars. This means that the negative end of the battery is connected to all the metalwork of the car. As the inner one inch cylinder and the included bolt are the negative end of the cell, this bolt may be connected to any substantial metal part of the car. Make sure that you remove any paint or sound-deadening material from the hole that you have drilled for the half inch bolt, and use a star washer on both sides of the hole in the metalwork to guarantee a long lasting low resistance connection. Positive connection. All parts of the cell and engine tube are at a positive potential. The best point to connect our positive is at the far end of the engine tube. I connect my positive lead under the four inch long section of neoprene hose (between the aluminium tube and the hose), and secure ONLY the cell end of the rubber tube with a stainless steel worm drive clip. This creates a good electrical connection between the lead and the cell-to-engine tube. This positive lead should go via a five amp fuse in series to the "ignition on" power distribution. What this means is that there is only power to the cell when the ignition key is in the normal car running position. As the cell has been made to only pass one Amp, the resultant power consumption of the cell with the car running will be 12 Watts. This is a fairly conservative power dissipation, but it will eventually heat up the cell on a long trip and a hot day. Please read Regulation section below. When the car is not in use, and depending on the leakage of the cell, you may require a "trickle charge" current to flow through the cell to maintain a minimal breeding condition. Joe employed a 1.5 Volt battery to accomplish this in his early days. I would suggest a current flow of 0.25 Amps to accomplish this. This is a power dissipation of 3 Watts. If you connect a resistor of about 3 Ohms in series with your positive lead, you will achieve the above. This value will vary from cell to cell and you will have to select on test the actual resistor to be used. In all cases, a 4 or 5 Watt wire wound resistor of the appropriate resistance value will be adequate. Make sure that this resistor is suitably mounted as it will get warm and you don¹t want to start a fire. Regulation. As you can see from the above, we already have two values of current flow (a running value and a trickle charge value). The simplest way to achieve this would be a changeover switch that introduces a series resistor when the car is not running. But, as most people will forget to operate this switch every time they turn the engine off, an automatic system is far superior and probably essential. This is easily achieved with a relay connected to the "ignition on" distribution. With this method, when the car ignition is off, the relay is released and the appropriate resistor is in series with the positive lead and the cell. The cell now only has the trickle charge current flowing through it. When the ignition is in the run position, the relay now operates, and the resistor is shorted out by the relay contacts. The cell now has the full 1 Amp flowing through it. Obviously, when the ignition is turned off, the cell reverts back to the trickle charge current mode. During the early experimental and development stages, I would recommend a variable 5 Ohm, 5 Watt, wire wound potentiometer and a series 0-5 Amp ammeter. With this system you will be able to optimise your running and trickle charge currents and finally choose the optimum resistors for both modes. Also, you will be able to find exactly how much current you need for optimum cell output to suit the climatic and driving conditions. The reason is that as the cell heats up, it draws more current. Yes, you will have to experiment! Cell-to-engine tube Previously, I have mentioned that I use 20 mm. outside diameter aluminium tube. I am not telling you that this is the only diameter or material that works. It is the material and diameter that others, including myself, have standardised on to allow for ease of interchangeability for fault finding and experimentation. The length of this tube should be as short as possible without using sharp bends. All bends in the tube must have smooth and progressive direction changes with no distortions. The tube should be covered with insulation similar to what is used on hot water pipes and car roof racks. Reduce any horizontal runs of the tube to a minimum. Similarly, do not use any U-bends that force the Orgone to change directions from an upward to a downward run. A good example of how not to mount the cell is seen on the amigo web site (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~amigo_s/joe.htm). In the photographs, this cell is mounted above the car with a severe downhill run to the motor. Although aluminium is a good barrier for Orgone, the energy is still leaking out the tube. As you now know, Orgone has an upward vertical tendency and therefore the best position for the Joe cell is as low as possible, so the Orgone can flow upwards to the blind plug and thus the motor. The inside edges of the cell end of the tube must have a radius that reduces gradually to the outside diameter of the tube. So if we are looking up the inside of the cone towards the compression fitting and the aluminium tube, there should be no sudden change of diameter to upset the flow of the Orgone. This area, where we are forcing the Orgone to create a beam that goes down the aluminium tube, is critical. Keep all inside surfaces polished and do not have any obstructions whatsoever in the flow path. The engine end of the tube has a section of about 4 inches of neoprene rubber hose pushed over the aluminium tube and the blind plug. If you have 1 inch of hose on the blind plug and 1 inch of hose over the aluminium tube, you end up with a non-metallic gap of 2 inches. This gap is vital as the motor is at negative potential and the aluminium tube is at positive potential. We must never let any portion of the cell or tube touch any part of the car or motor. That is why I have suggested that you should insulate your cell and tube. I have mentioned previously that our positive lead is under the 4 inch rubber sleeve and is held secure to the aluminium tube by means of a worm drive clip. The blind plug end of the 4 inch hose must not have any form of clip on it! This end of the rubber sleeve performs the function of a one way valve for the Joe cell. When you push the rubber sleeve over the blind plug, please make sure that you cover the inside of the sleeve and the outside of the blind plug with Vaseline (petroleum jelly). The following will now occur: As a result of electrolysis in the cell, every now and then, the excess cell pressure will vent to the atmosphere via the loose coupling between the rubber sleeve and the blind plug. But when the pressure drops, air will not be sucked back into the cell. I have found that this valve enhances the duration of the breeding process. I repeat, the blind plug end of the neoprene 4 inch sleeve must be free to allow the release of excessive pressure build-up. If you keep your cell electrolysis to 1 Amp or less, this venting is minimal. All the same, the gases are explosive, so take the appropriate safeguards. Imagine what would happen if the cell could not vent excessive pressure. The pressure in the cell will keep building up until the weakest point lets go. This, in all probability, would be the rubber sleeve. If you were super stupid and really clamped and glued the hose down at each end, the tube will sustain over 100 psi before letting go. This would release a high pressure stream of HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE GASES! This could be ignited by the distributor points, cigarettes, static electricity, exhaust system, etc. PEOPLE COULD BE KILLED OR SERIOUSLY INJURED!!! Please, if you are not competent, don¹t do it, or seek a professional. Read my Disclaimer! The optimum and smart solution is to use a 1 psi blow-off valve that vents the waste gas into the air intake after the air cleaner. The waste gas will now be drawn into the motor and the air cleaner will act as a flame arrester. That is the smart, safe and logical solution. The only other danger is that you did not follow my instructions, or you have decided that you know best, or more is better, and you boosted up the electrolysis action. As such, you will have excessive venting, and sooner or later, you and your experiment will part, suddenly and violently. Please, please, put your brain into gear before playing around with explosive mixtures, or better still, leave it to professionals. Blind plug location First and foremost, the 1 inch long section of the blind plug that the neoprene hose slips on, must have the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the neoprene tube. The neoprene sleeve must not be a force fit onto the blind plug. Do not economise or compromise this fit. Your life and the life of others may be on the line! The sleeve must be an easy push fit over the blind plug. The blind plug should be made out of aluminium and the final shape will be determined by the mounting location on the motor. The aim is to introduce the Orgone "beam" of energy as centrally as possible on the motor and as close as possible to the water that is circulated around the cylinders. There have been many locations employed, and they all work to a degree, ie. a blind plug on the intake manifold, a blind plug on the back of the head, a blind plug on the block, etc. My suggestion for 4 and 6 cylinder motors is to place the blind plug on the block near the head gasket line and as central as possible. The 8 cylinder motor is ideal as the blind plug can be centrally located on the water heated part of the intake manifold. Be careful with older 4 and 6 cylinder motors as one side may have the push rods, tappets and camshaft located inside the block. As such, you will not be placing your blind plug against the water jacket. Sometimes you may be able to remove the welsh plug from the optimum location and machine one end of the blind plug to fit this circular opening. Make sure that you do a professional job of this, as a plug that falls out means a loss of all water and probably the motor! Some individuals claim that they have placed the blind plug on the carburettor or even the air cleaner. I have my doubts, but as I have not verified these claims, they may be adequate, but in my view, far from optimised. I suggest that you secure your blind plug via two Allen bolts and suitable tapped holes on your chosen location. Make sure that the mounting surface of the blind plug matches the contour of the block or head or manifold at the chosen fixing point. The blind plug must be mounted on the opposite side to the exhaust system on cross-flow-head motors. This is another reason why the V8 motor or a horizontally opposed motor is so superior in its conversion to Orgone energy. We want to stay as far away from the hot and exit side of the motor as possible. If you have a siamesed exhaust and intake manifold motor, you are really making it difficult for yourself. Unless you know exactly what you are doing and have performed a previous conversion to give you faith in yourself, I honestly think that you will not have any success. You can again see from the above why Joe¹s Rover started first up on the cell, yet other motors took weeks to condition before any results were achieved. Ignition timing Volumes have been written about this topic by armchair scientists who try to explain their pet theories on implosion, explosion, both implosion and explosion, or any other pet combination you may care to think of, and therefore have to shift the timing anywhere in the 720 degree cycle to make the motor run on their theoretical mind projections. I will again repeat, forget the theories and JUST DO IT! It is really simple. I will again tell you how I do it. Preferably have a car that has an electrical fuel pump and a switch that you can turn the pump off with. If you have a mechanical pump, fit some type of adjustable clamp on the neoprene line that goes from the tank to the fuel pump input. Or you may want to suck the fuel into the fuel pump from a 5 litre metal petrol container. NOTE. This method is dangerous as you are working with exposed petrol. Whatever system you adopt, all you are trying to do is to control the flow of petrol to the motor. Next, loosen the clamp that holds the distributor, but do not shift the distributor body. Start the car on petrol. Let the engine warm up and make sure that it is hot enough so that the choke has gone to the normal running position. Remove the fuel flow to the engine by your chosen method. Within a short period of time the car will start to run erratically. Rotate the distributor to advance the spark plug firing until you get the best possible idle speed. Keep doing this with progressively smaller and smaller to and fro rotations of the distributor over the next few minutes. If your cell has taken over, your engine will keep running. If the cell has not taken over, the engine will stop as it runs out of fuel, and that is it. Go to the fault finding section. If the cell has taken over, tighten the distributor at its new location. When the excitement wears off and if you are still sober, take the car to a garage with a wheel dynamometer and optimise the engine for maximum power. Do not let the mechanic anywhere near your exhaust system with a gas analyser, as there will be no reading on his gas analyser and you will really have to do some fancy explaining. I would now like to clarify a few points on ignition timing for non-mechanical individuals. * In all spark ignition engines, it is necessary to arrange for the spark to occur a little before the piston has reached the upper limit of its travel of the compression stroke. It is usual to express this ignition advance requirement in terms of degrees of crank angle before top dead centre (BTDC). The danger of this term is that it can be measured at either the crankshaft or at the distributor. As the distributor runs off the camshaft and thus at half engine speed, the distributor measurement will be exactly half the crankshaft measurement. So when we talk of 10 degrees BTDC at the distributor, we really mean 20 degrees BTDC at the crankshaft. This misunderstanding has caused huge confusion for the casual non-informed reader. For example, when Joe states that the Escort runs best at 85 degrees of advance, what is he talking about? As mentioned at the start of this sub-section, a spark plug ignites once every 720 crankshaft degrees, or more simply, every two revolutions. At idle, most motors are set to fire the spark plug at between 5 and 15 degrees BTDC at the crankshaft. As the revolutions of the motor increase, the distributor or car computer advances the timing (or makes it fire sooner) until we reach an advance of about 35 degrees BTDC at the crankshaft for normal motors and normal fuels. With 100 octane aviation type fuels, this advance on racing cars can be as great as 60 degrees BTDC. So really, when Joe states 85 degrees of advance is required for an Escort motor running on a Joe cell, it is no big deal as it is very close to a setting required for an engine that is running a high octane, slower burning fuel. It does not even remotely hint at implosion or the like. To conclude, as we do not know exactly how and what powers the motor, all academic armchair rubbish is exactly that; rubbish. Make your cell, connect it as I recommend, time it as I recommend, get the car running and then start your analysis and armchair battles. Motor modifications For the initial start up from the Joe cell, an aluminium V8 motor will not require any modifications apart from a change in timing as described in the previous sub-section. Other motors will require a varying time of "conditioning" before being finally ready to run on the Joe cell. Then you will have to change the ignition timing as described. As the Orgone energy is primarily attracted to the water jacket around the motor, most of the energy will be "stored" in a latent state in this area. That is not to say that there will not be a varying density of Orgone in other sections of the motor or in the near vicinity of the cell and the car. Joe does make quite a few references to what he call a "sealed" engine, as is the case with the Rover motor and most modern motors as well. Basically, if you remove the oil filler cap, you should notice that the idle revolutions of the motor will change, as you have disturbed the positive crankcase ventilation path. In older motors, the blow-by gases that passed the rings and ended up in the crankcase were dumped via a breather pipe directly into the atmosphere. These types of motors were not "sealed". As the pollution laws slowly changed around the world, these types of blow-by products were frowned upon and the car manufacturers had to come up with an alternative method for their disposal. The modern solution is to collect these blow-by products, and re-introduce them into the inlet manifold via a PCV valve, for their subsequent mixing with the fuel mixture and resultant combustion. If, for example, you remove the dipstick or the oil filler cap, you have effectively opened this system which is under atmospheric pressure, and you thus change the idle speed, as you have introduced an air leak on the engine side of the carburettor or fuel injection butterfly throttle control. You have also interfered with the Orgone density and its relationship with the air! Remember how I have been harping on for you to keep the top on the test cell when it is not in use? Well, the engine is just a larger, more complex test cell. We do not want to introduce our Orgone energy to external air until we are ready! And we are only ready when the piston goes down the bore creating a depression and thus causing an external flow of air to come in via the intake valve. If you are having trouble in getting the motor to run on a Joe cell and have exhausted all other possible areas of problems, please also consider the internal crankcase ventilation system as explained. You will only have problems in this area with a fairly old motor, or a motor that has been modified or that has developed a fault with the PCV system. Simply try the "remove the oil filler cap" trick. Beyond the initial short term test running of the motor, each motor and car will develop its own type of idiosyncrasy. As my personal list of converted cars is very small, I have very limited guidance for you in this area. I will mention the little that I know in this area and at least start a list that can be added to when YOU and others give me feedback on your own conversions that I can use for the update of this manual. Sadly, I have found that some converted car owners prefer to guard their knowledge and hope to keep it secret and thus have a longer run on the free energy before the mighty hand of bureaucracy places a ban on such work. So be it, we are all different and they are entitled to their view. I do sometimes wonder why I am giving thousands of hours and thousands of dollars of my personal time and money to such people. Anyway, on with the list of long-term modifications: The engine runs cooler. As such, a winter oil and antifreeze seems to be the logical fix. Instruments and sensors burn out. I do not know of a fix for this, as it is very difficult to shield a breeding cell. Remember that as a result of reaching Orgone saturation in the water, the excess Orgone is converted to electricity. These potentials can be quite high under favourable conditions and will happily destroy electrical equipment. One possible fix is to place Zener diodes or similar voltage sensitive "trip" circuits to bypass all voltages of greater than 15 Volts. It may work, I have not tried it as yet. The cell interacts with the car occupants. Apart from making the cell non-leaky, I cannot think of even a single possible solution to this one. The cell runs hot after hours of use, eg. in a taxi. The cure is to control the electrolysis current to the minimum possible without noticing a performance change. As the cell heats up, you have a thermal runaway effect. So as the cell gets hotter, it flows more current, that heats it up some more, that flows more current, etc. There is no report to hand, that I know of, that goes into the long term wear and tear of the motor running on the cell. The highest km¹s that I personally know of on a cell, is less then 10,000 km¹s, and as such, it is still far too early for any form of appraisal.

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