Text: E5d. To assemble the outer casing of the cell, the following welding and machining operations are required: * Have your top cone and compression fitting welded together. I would suggest that your compression fitting is designed for 20 mm. outer diameter tube. This way, all club members or larger groups will be able to interchange cells as a help with car conversions. After the above welding, remove any "dags" that resulted from the welding operation. Grind and polish this junction so that the internal transition from cone to outlet fitting is as smooth as you can achieve, without ridiculous fastidiousness. Check that the joint is watertight. * Press fit your modified thread to one end of the 5 inch cylinder, making sure that the cylinder protrudes slightly below this male thread so there is metal to metal contact with the lower cap. This step must also allow reasonable compression of the O-ring. See diagram and picture. * Have the cone welded to the other end of the 5 inch cylinder. As in the step above, make sure that the transition from cone to outer cylinder is smooth on the inside. Check that the joint is watertight. * At this stage, have your outer assembly heat treated to remove the paramagnetism from the welding operation. I do not do this, I use the unit as it ends up after welding and the cell works okay, but to guarantee the success of your cell, I would strongly recommend the heat treatment step. When the unit comes back from the heat treatment people, lightly repolish the outside and inside. Also, at this stage, run a bead of 24 hour Araldite, or similar, over the outside only junction of the pressed thread ring and the 5 inch tube. This will ensure that you will not have any slight electrolyte weepage from the press fit. This completes the outer casing construction. Place it next to your completed inner cylinder assembly and let's move on. E5e. All that is left to do is to complete the lower cap and ‡ inch bolt support system. In the middle of the cap, you will need a hole that is ‡ inch (12 mm.) greater in diameter than the shaft diameter of the bolt. So for example, if your bolt shaft was ‡ inch diameter, you would drill a 1 inch hole in the lower cap plate. This allows a º inch (6 mm.) gap that will be filled up by your inner insulating washer. * You now require a 1 inch (25 mm.) length of thin walled tubing that you push onto the bolt until it touches the lower edge of the bolt head. Make sure that the outer diameter of this sleeve tube is not so large that it blocks the water flow in and out of the 1 inch cylinder. * The next step is to make 2 washers from Nylon, Teflon, etc. The inner washer will be stepped. The smaller diameter step will have a 1 inch outer diameter and be deep enough to be nearly as thick as the cap material thickness. The outer diameter of this stepped washer is not critical, so about 1.5 inches will do. The thickness of this larger diameter matches the distance that the bolt is inserted inside the 1 inch tube. So, º inch (6 mm.) is required in our example. This will result in the inner cylinder assembly being 1 inch above the lower cap. This insulator has a central hole drilled through it to exactly match the shaft diameter of the chosen bolt. A tight fit here will minimise any water loss down the bolt and thus out of the cell. The insulator that is on the bolt is easier to make. Make it about º inch (6 mm.) thick and 1.5 inches wide. The hole in the centre is again made to match the shaft diameter of the bolt. E5f. Now assemble the inner cylinder assembly to the lower cap plate. With clean hands, place the inner cylinder assembly top down, bolt up, on your flat plate. If not already done, slip your 1 inch long spacer sleeve onto the bolt. Next, apply Vaseline (petroleum jelly) liberally all over the bolt shaft and inner washer. Place the inner washer onto the bolt so that the smaller diameter step is facing you and liberally cover this step with more Vaseline. Now place the lower cap onto the bolt the right way round, so that the 1 inch step of the inner insulator fits into the 1 inch hole of the lower cap. Again, liberally apply Vaseline on the outer insulator and slip this over the bolt. Next, put your washer, electrical lug and nut on the bolt. Tighten the nut more than hand tight but not excessively. Check your handiwork, make sure you remove excess Vaseline, also ensuring you do not get any on the cylinders or over the inside of the cap plate. E5g. Take your outer casing, Vaseline the O-ring and sit it in the groove of the 5 inch male thread. Lower your completed inner assembly and make sure that the lower cap plate fits snugly into the 5 inch outer tube without disturbing the O-ring. Take your 5 inch nut and screw it on the thread. Use reasonable force to do the nut up. E5h. Fill the cell up right to the top with juvenile water and leave it overnight in an area or surface where you will be able to see any leaks. If there were no leaks, pour out the water and give yourself a pat on the back. Why? Because you are finished. You can now insert fresh juvenile water to the correct level and start your charging operations. Good going! **************************************** Chapter 7 SEED DIAMETER/HEIGHT RATIO "Nature is the embodiment of the simplest conceivable mathematics." Albert Einstein To calculate the height of the cylinders for maximum efficiency, proceed as follows: 1. As covered in greater detail in the chapter "Charging the water", make sure that you have your chosen test current flowing through the cell. I normally adjust my electrolyte to obtain a repeatable current flow of 1 Ampere with 12 Volts across the cell. 2. Place a known voltage across the innermost cylinder and the outermost cylinder. For car use, I suggest 12 Volts from a car battery or equivalent. The negative goes to the inside bottom of the innermost cylinder (normally 1î diameter), and the positive goes to the outside top of the outermost cylinder (normally 4î or 5î diameter). Measure this voltage accurately! 3. Now leave one lead of the voltmeter on the inner cylinder, and with the other lead, find the half voltage point diagonally from the inner cylinder to a point in the water. Do your best to memorise this point. Now place one lead of the meter on the outer cylinder, and with the other lead, find the half voltage point diagonally towards the inner cylinder. Note this point. It will be close to the first measured point, but not necessarily the same point! If there is a difference, halve the difference and record. 4. Measure diametrically the distance from the centre of the innermost cylinder to the half voltage point as measured, plus the difference, if any. Double this measurement! This is the diameter of the "seed" circumference. For example, on a 4î, 3î, 2î, 1î cylinder cell, the diameter was 2.24î, and for a 5î, 4î, 3î, 2î, 1î cylinder cell, the diameter was 2.83î. 5. By using the natural logarithm of the height of the cylinder, we can interpolate and work out our optimum cylinder heights. The formula is: h = ed (h = height of cylinder, e = 2.718281Ö, d = seed diameter). All measurements must be in inches. I have worked out some standard size values for you. You can easily work out your value from the following table. Cylinder Seed Cylinder Seed height diameter height diameter 6î 1.79î 13î 2.56î 6.5î 1.87î 13.5î 2.60î 7î 1.95î 14î 2.64î 7.5î 2.01î 14.5î 2.67î 8î 2.08î 15î 2.71î 8.5î 2.14î 15.5î 2.74î 9î 2.20î 16î 2.77î 9.5î 2.25î 16.5î 2.80î 10î 2.30î 17î 2.83î 10.5î 2.35î 17.5î 2.86î 11î 2.40î 18î 2.89î 11.5î 2.44î 18.5î 2.92î 12î 2.48î 19î 2.94î 12.5î 2.53î 19.5î 2.97î 20î 3.00î 6. So in 4. above, we would use inner cylinders of about 9.4î for the 4 cylinder cell and we would use 17î cylinders for the 5 cylinder cell. If this height is too long for you, you can use the next submultiple for the longer cylinders, ie. 8.5î for the 17î cylinders, etc. There is a corresponding loss in "breeding" output, but as long as your cell is not too leaky and you are not travelling in a strip of low level Orgone, you should get away with it. 7. At no stage should you use inner cylinders of a length of less than 7î of cylinder height for the most common cubic capacity car engines. Of course, for test cells, you will be able to get away with lower surface area cylinders. I use 5 inch (125 mm.) high cylinders in my test cell as this allows me to use less water during experiments. Final note on the above. Many many cells have been built without going to, or knowing about, the above table and they all work to a degree, well enough to start the car. As a simple reliable rule that works, use 7 inch long inner cylinders and a 9 inch long outer cylinder for a 4 cylinder cell. Use 8 inch long inner cylinders and a 10 inch long outer cylinder for a 5 cylinder cell. **************************************** Chapter 8 WATER TYPE AND ITS RELATION TO THE CELL "Water is a living substance!" Viktor Schauberger As seen on the chapter on Orgone polarity, we have the choice of negative Orgone, positive Orgone, or a combination of both. Combined polarity Orgone cells are more suited for use in real Orgone motors and "anti-gravity devices" as used by the people in the know, but the funds, time and permission are out of the realm of the normal backyard experimenter. So as far as these notes are concerned, scratch that option out. A positive cell would require alkalis, different insulators, 316S stainless steel and water with a natural pH of 7 or more. For many reasons, I did not choose to go in that direction. As I will explain shortly, I choose to make only negative cells, and these notes are based on the construction of negative cells. Do not read negative as not as good as positive. They perform identical functions, all that we are doing is sitting on the left side of a see-saw and not the right side. What do I mean by negative or positive cells? Simply stated, a negative cell is based on acidic water and related materials, and a positive cell is based on alkaline water and related materials. Water type As discovered by many experimenters and holy people, Orgone, or the life force, loves or has a great affinity for water. Just as well, or we and the rest of the planet's "living" creations would not be here. So the first step in our quest to build an accumulator is to provide for whatever we are trying to accumulate, a container or area where we can accomplish this task. Okay, as far as I am concerned, we are trying to accumulate Orgone energy, thus the aim of the game for me, is to provide the most attractive and pleasant area to allow this energy to gather and then I concentrate, focus and utilise the energy before finally releasing it back to where it came from. If we assume for the moment that Orgone will be accumulated by water, the next question is obvious; what type of water, in what type of container, how large? etc. Here experimenters have gone in all directions and a huge mythology from armchair experts has developed to show the way to the "blind". Let me state from the start that Reich and others have spent their lives telling us how and what to do. I have compiled a great deal of scientific information, and as such, I am standing on many great shoulders that have passed before me to give me a better view of the problem, and I claim no credit. The only credit I claim is that I have got up from my backside and have actually done it. So by doing, now I know, like you will, if you ever make a cell. So, if I am dealing with living energies, it makes absolute sense to me to accumulate them in living water! All water is not just plain old water, nor are all pure waters the same, or pure. Unfortunately, the experimenter grasps on the word "pure" and immediately images of "pure" water from the local supermarket or distilled or rain water or his favourite filtered tap water flashes into his head. No, No, No! I am deliberately belabouring this point as it is critical in the construction of easy seeding, breeding and low leakage cells. Get your water right or stop reading here and use these notes to light fires. Okay, you say, let's move on, what is this magic water? Pure water means that good old mankind did not get a chance to "help" the water to make it better with additives, or the water has not lain around in metal or cement pipes until we want to use it, nor has it been ripped apart by turbines and pumps, nor has it lain stagnant and motionless in the Sun, nor has it flowed next to roads to have all the car combustion heavy metals fall into it, nor has it flowed underneath high tension power lines, nor has it had all the guttering from thousands of houses dump their toxins into it, nor has it had thousands of roads and streets drop their pollutants and waste into it. I mean, you must be getting the drift by now. The water you drink out of your tap is dead, distilled water is dead, tank water from roofs, etc. may be dead and toxic, water you buy from the supermarket is dead, and river and creek water that you may get downstream after it passes through towns and cities is also useless. I use what I call juvenile or virgin water. By that I mean water that I get at the start of rivers or creeks. Juvenile water is like a child looking out for new experiences as it leaps and runs in shady, rocky and self-selected pathways. It has the ability to store these "pleasant" memories, or life-beneficial frequencies. I do not have to tell any reader how cold and how invigorating a mountain stream is. That is the right water! We do not want the water after it has experienced the frequencies from mankind's help, unless we can remove these detrimental memories. I have my favourite water catchment area well outside Melbourne, Australia, where all the above conditions are met. There are no roads, powerlines, dams, pipes or any man-made intrusions, the water flows how it wants to in natural, twisty downhill paths it has created, the whole area is green all year round and you can feel the vitality and Nature at work. Absolutely beautiful! No wonder that village people in mountain areas live so long. pH The water I use in its natural state has a pH of 6.5. That means it is slightly acidic and perfect for the negative cells that I make. I bring this water home, making sure that I protect it from excessive sloshing and the heat of the sunlight whilst in the car. At home, I store it in 20 litre Pyrex bottles. Do not store it in plastic containers, even if the container is marked "suitable for water". So the first thing you need when you find your own magic spot is some 1-14 Litmus paper. This is quite cheap and you can get a small quantity from your nearest swimming pool supplier. The water will be either: Neutral, ie. pH is approximately 7. In this case the ion level is too low for electrolysis and you will have to add electrolyte. Acid, ie. pH varies from 7 down to 1. As this is what we require for a negative cell, grab some and bring it home. Alkaline, ie. pH varies from 7 to 14. You may make a positive cell with this, as many people do. I personally am not interested, and therefore, I do not cover a positive cell construction in these notes. Be wary of any juvenile water with a pH of 5 or less, as the natural water acid level is getting too high due to pollutants or a high concentration of minerals. I personally have not used such water and can offer no guidance. In the section on cell construction, I cover the stages required to bring this water to the right "working strength". General notes It should now be self explanatory that constructors who use water without knowing the pH and then mix it with various chemistry, eg. "caustic soda", an alkaline that is popular (probably because every house has some) and dubious insulator materials, are doomed to failure. Caustic just loves to chew at insulators. Believe me, stay with mild acids. You may use vinegar or acetic acid that you use for cleaning the stainless steel and kill two birds with one stone. I personally have made my own mix that I call "Go juice". The acid I use is food grade phosphoric acid, but acetic acid or vinegar is fine. It would be absolutely stupid to get naturally acidic water then electrolyse it with an alkaline and then complain that you are getting sludge formations and the cell does not work. **************************************** Chapter 9 CHARGING THE WATER "When water is agitated and coiled radio-axially, with light, heat and air excluded, diamagnetic forces are generated." Viktor Schauberger You are reading this chapter because you now have a container of the right water and you are ready to pour it into your test cell, or your car cell. Preparation You will need the following: A multimeter with an amperage range that can read up to at least 2 Amperes. The same multimeter or a meter that can read up to 20 Volts direct current. The same multimeter or a meter that can read up to at least 10 Megohms resistance. A funnel with a built-in filter or a normal funnel into which you can place a paper coffee filter. Your chosen electrolyte. A battery charger or similar that can supply about 4 Amperes at approximately 12 Volts. Most battery chargers put out much more but, at this stage, it is not critical. You may also want to use a fully charged 12 Volt battery or a power supply. The aim is to have a reproducible voltage with an output current capability of about 2 Amperes. A pair of leads that you can clip from the power source to your cell. I would strongly suggest that you identify your leads and clips so that you will not reverse your polarity to the cell. We want to always place the negative lead to the bottom of the centre cylinder and the positive lead to the top of the outermost cylinder. A working area where the cell can be left undisturbed for a period of time, in the worst case, 4 weeks. I know, I know, you are in a hurry! But unfortunately for you, Mother Nature has infinite time and she is in control of this project. A top, lid, or some way of sealing the cell from air. Now, I am not recommending an airtight seal, even a lid loosely sitting on top of your test jar is sufficient. The seeding and breeding process is hampered by having too great an area at the top of the cell being exposed to air. The charging process 1. Have your cell sitting on a wooden workbench or on a sheet of plastic type material or, as a last resort, on a newspaper. We are trying to insulate the cell from metal paths that may impede the seeding process. 2. Now, with your meter set to read resistance, preferably on your highest resistance scale, read the resistance from the inner to the outer cylinder of your cell. It should be in the high Megohm range. If not, your insulators are conductive and you did not follow the previous cell construction recommendations. 3. If all is okay in the above step, fill the cell via your funnel with the enclosed filter. Next, and this is critical, fill it only level with the top of the cylinders and no more! The effect that you want to create is a set of water cells separated by metal cylinders. These are your alternate organic and non-organic chambers. Of course the submerged sections of your chambers are flooded, but with this simple cell, the top will be doing all the work. Now you may also realise why the cylinders have to match on the top, as otherwise the meniscus formed by the water would not work and the water would flow from compartment to compartment. This level is only critical during the seeding process, as we require maximum Orgone capture to seed the cell. Naturally, with a charged cell, the water is sloshing all over the place whilst you are driving your car. Joe did say that during charging, the water would find its own level and then use no more. So with long periods of electrolysis, you would find that the above described level is where you would end up anyway and then the cell would start seeding. With my method, by starting at the right level, you will not waste hours of time creating steam, oxygen, hydrogen and chemical deposits as a result of electrolysis. 4. Turn on the power supply, and if it is adjustable, set it to 12 Volts. Connect the positive end of your power source to the top of the outer cylinder. Connect the negative end of your power source to one end of your meter that is set up to read a minimum of 2 Amperes. Connect the other end of the meter to the bottom of the central cylinder. What we have simply done is set up the meter to read any current flow into your cell from the power source. At this stage, if your water is close to a pH of 7, as previously discussed, the current flow will be zero, or in the low milliamp region. If you are reading Amps, you are doing something wrong! Contrary to what "experts" tell you, it is impossible to draw huge current from pure water. Think about it. To draw even 1 Amp at 12 Volts, the resistance of the water would have to be, by Ohm's law, 12 Ohms! No way! You are doing something wrong. 5. Presuming that you only read milliamps, you now want to introduce electrolyte to electrolyse your cell. The aim is to get a standard current flow for your electrolysis. To do this, drip a small amount of your chosen electrolyte into the cell water whilst stirring and watching your Amp meter. Use a glass or perspex or wood dowel rod for the stirrer, do not use your handy paint-stirring screwdriver! Throw away your wood dowel when finished as it will absorb chemistry. Do plenty of gentle stirring of the water as you add the electrolyte, otherwise you will add too much electrolyte! Stop adding electrolyte when the meter indicates 1 Amp. Your water level may rise as a consequence of the addition of electrolyte. Remove some water out of your cell. I use a pipette, so as not to disturb the cell. Remove enough water to again just expose the tops of the cylinders. At this stage, disconnect your meter and power source and have a bit of a clean up as the next stages are observation. The charging process is separated into three distinct stages that I call Stage 1, 2 and 3. These stages have some obvious differences and also some subtle ones. With experience you will know immediately if the cell is charged, but in your early attempts you will have to rely on my photographs and description or visit someone with a working cell. Do not listen to armchair scientists. For the rest of your charging process, you will only be connecting your power source to the cell for a maximum of 5 minutes at a time. As Orgone lags electricity by about 30 seconds, you will know the state of the cell in less than a minute. Do not be tempted to leave the power connected to the cell for long periods! Yes, I know that you are in a hurry and more is better, but in this case you only generate heat, steam, waste power and overheat the cell. You can pick the failures by seeing their cells running non-stop for days with 20 or more Amps turning the water to steam, etching the cylinders and ending up with a barrel full of scum. What else would you expect? After all, electrolysis is time- and current-related. DANGER! Do not charge any cell that is totally sealed! The cell will explode, with all the related consequences. Always remove the lid or unplug the car cell before doing any charging. I repeat, an airtight seal IS NOT REQUIRED! At no stage do I prescribe any form of airtight container. Stage 1. This stage is plain old electrolysis. Due to us passing a direct current through a liquid that contains ions, chemical changes will occur. In our case, you will see small bubbles and a cloud of activity that is greater nearest the outside of the inner cylinder. The important observation points are that the activity is greatest nearest the central cylinder and gets progressively less as we move outward via the different chambers formed by the rest of the cylinders. Additionally, within a short period of turning the power off, all activity stops, the water becomes clear and the bubbles disappear. Summary stage 1. Every fool and his dog gets to this stage. The secret is not to increase the electrolyte and thus the current and/or leave the cell on for days on end. Be patient, leave the cell on for no longer than 5 minutes, turn the power source off, remove the leads to the cell, and put the top on the test cell, or partially block off the exit of the car cell. It does not have to be airtight! Go and do something else. It is like waiting for a tree to grow from the seed. Do this on a daily basis for days or a week or longer until you get to stage 2. Stage 2. You will now notice on your initial powering up of the cell that the bubbles are getting larger and the clouds of tiny white bubbles in the water are much smaller or more transparent. Also in stage 1, you had the action occurring mainly in the proximity of the central cylinder. Now the bubbles form in a regular fashion irrespective of location in the cell. More importantly, on turning the power off from the cell, the bubbles do not go away immediately but stay there for minutes rather than seconds, as in stage 1. Also, the top of the water assumes a glazed look and the meniscus is higher due to a change in the surface tension of the water. At this stage, you may have some brownish material amongst your bubbles. Don¹t panic. It is only the impurities being removed from the cell. I find that if I wipe the top surface of the water with a paper towel, the bubbles and the deposit will adhere to the paper and can easily be removed. Top up the cell, if required, after the above cleaning, so that again, only the top edges of the cylinders are just showing. Note. All topping up of the cell at any stage is done with plain juvenile water only. No more electrolyte is added! Summary stage 2. Very similar to stage 1, but now we have a more even bubble distribution and an increase of surface tension and a longer presence of the bubbles when the power is turned off. If you look in the bottom of your glass test cell, you will have no scum and the water will be crystal clear. At this stage, the Orgone has seeded the cell, but as yet, is not breeding. Stage 3. Not many people get to this stage, or what is worse, get here incorrectly. If you get here following the above steps, your water is still crystal clear with no deposits in the sump. If you get here by brute force, you will have stripped appreciable amounts of material from the cylinders and this material will now deposit on the insulators and hang around as a colloid and finally form in the sump as a deposit. The low resistance insulators and the metallic colloid will create a more leaky cell that will cause endless mysterious car stoppages or refusal of the car to start, etc. Right, the miracle of Nature is now breeding in your cell. Upon turning your power on to the cell, within 30 seconds copious beautiful white bubbles will rise from all the surface area of the cell. Before these bubbles cover the water surface, you will notice a pulsing in all cylinders that is synchronised and has a regular rhythm of about 2 pulses per second. These bubbles may overflow the container and show great surface tension, but one of the definite proofs that the cell is breeding is that, on turning the power source off and coming back the next day, most of the bubbles will still be on top of the water as opposed to stage 1 or stage 2 where they disappeared in minutes. Summary stage 3. There is no way that you can mistake this stage once you have seen it. Some lucky people can feel the living energy and can react with it, Reich¹s "Y factor". For the rest of you normal people, the signs are radically different. The bubbles are larger and pure white, the surface tension is greater, and most importantly, the surface tension remains days after the power has been removed. Additional note for the desperate electronically inclined individual. Please note. I do not recommend any additional tests or measurements, your eyes and brains should suffice, but if you are in trouble, you may measure the voltage across the cell after it has been left standing with the power off for at least 24 hours. A live cell will have a residual voltage, or more correctly, a self-generated voltage of around 1 Volt. A stage 1 cell measured under similar conditions will read .1 to .2 of a Volt. Remember, that unless you know what you are doing, these voltage measurements can be very misleading due to probe materials and battery effects that can easily mask your true measurement. As the cell reaches the maximum density of Orgone that it can hold, the result of the breeding process is the conversion of this excess Orgone into the formation of electricity. As such, electrical measurement with the correct instruments is a very valuable method in the verification of the efficiency of the cell.

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