Text: So, you will need: 1 x Keg of your chosen size. 8 x Cones of chosen size. 1 x Nylon, or similar, central cone support rod. 8 x Nylon, or similar, spacer washers to suit cones and central support rod. 16 x Neoprene O-rings to suit central support rod. 1 x 300 mm. long by 6 mm. diameter (approx.) stainless steel support rod. (Use horizontally across keg to hold central rod and cone assembly.) 1 x 1 metre long (approx.) by 12 mm. wide stainless steel strap, approximately 1 mm. thick. 6 x Stainless steel pop rivets. Note. If you just want to get on with it, and you only want to charge your car cell, you do not require a charging vat. Its main virtue is the quantity of water and the ability to remove any scum from the top of the water. Unfortunately, as your car cell is enclosed, this scum is not so readily removed, but there is nothing to stop you charging the water in your car cell, tipping out your stage 3 water in a glass container, filtering this water and reintroducing it back into your car cell. Anyway, if you use the methods described in these notes, you will find that your scum will be at a minimum. I have always charged my car cells as a stand-alone unit, ie. no charging vat. The advantages are that you know that the cell and the water are okay and not just the water, as the case would be, if you used water out of your charging vat. A2. 4 cylinder test cell. The test cell is a vital piece of equipment that you should make. It has two main functions: One, it is a training aid for you while you are learning about the different stages of charging the water. You will easily be able to observe the different bubble types, surface tensions, deposits in the sump and colloidal suspensions in the water. Two, you will be able to fill it up with suspect water from your main car cell and test to see if the water is still at stage 3. You do not have to be Einstein to work out that your container should be transparent. You will need: 1 x Glass or clear (not translucent) acrylic container about 6 inches (150 mm.) diameter by about 8 inches (200 mm.) tall. The container must have a lid! 1 x Set of 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch cylinders about 5 inches (125 mm.) long. 18 x ‡ inch (12 mm.) diameter by ‡ inch long spacers. 1 x Approx. 10 inches (250 mm.) stainless steel strap as per charging vat parts list. 2 x Small stainless steel nuts and screws to secure the strap to the plastic or glass container. 2 x Stainless steel pop rivets. 1 x 1.5 feet (500 mm.) of heat shrink tubing to fit over your stainless steel strap. 2 x Acrylic lower support combs (to be described later). Note. If you use the glass jar, you may want to insert the negative via a ‡ inch (12 mm.) stainless steel bolt via a hole that you drill through the bottom of the jar. In that case, you will need a 3 inch (76 mm.) stainless steel bolt, nut and washer, plus two nylon or Teflon machined washers where the bolt exits the glass container. The extra effort may not be worth it unless you can get the parts cheaply. A3. 4 cylinder car cell. The construction of the 4 cylinder and 5 cylinder cells is the same except for the extra cylinder and 6 spacers. Thus I will only describe the construction of the 5 cylinder cell. If you want to make a 4 cylinder cell, follow the construction of the 5 cylinder cell without the extra cylinder. Note. The only reason that I mention the 4 cylinder cell at all, is again due to the myths that have developed in the "field". Basically, the story goes like this: It is rumoured that if you do not use the charging vat, you can only charge and run your car with a 5 cylinder cell. You supposedly cannot charge your water with a 4 cylinder cell, only run your car on it. Joe also mentions in his video that he thinks that the 4 cylinder may even run the car better than the 5 cylinder cell. Personally, I have found that you can charge both 4 and 5 cylinder cells and thus, they will also run the car. As the leakage of a cell is determined by the "layers", the 5 layer cell is a better cell. I have found that a 5 cylinder cell works much better for me and I really have nothing to recommend the 4 cylinder cell for, except that it is a smaller cell. There is still meagre feedback from constructors, so the jury is still out. A4. 5 cylinder test cell. This is my favourite configuration. My very first test cell was a glass 5 cylinder cell with 7 inch long cylinders. This cell has been in constant use now for about 6 years, still not broken after countless dismantles and services. The insulators and cylinders after 6 years are as good as they were on day 1. This cell uses the ‡ inch bolt-through-the-bottom alternative. The construction is the same as the 4 cylinder test cell, with the addition of 6 extra spacers to support the extra 5 inch cylinder. That¹s it. A5. 5 cylinder car cell. This is the one, dear people. You either get this one right or end of Joe cell as reality and back to fantasy. This is the baby that has to seed and breed for you. This is the one that has to be reliable and sludge free. This is the one that people will judge your sanity on. If it does not work, you go down the path of all other failures and dreamers. Conversely, when you get it working, you will not be able to count all your new "friends". They will all want one, just "like the wizard made". There are variations, I will give you my favourite one, you will need: 1 x Set of hand selected, polished, clean, low paramagnetic, (may be heat treated) 1 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch inner cylinders, of 8 inch length, or length very close to 8 inches, as calculated from your own calculations as per Chapter 7. 1 x 5 inch diameter outer cylinder, as above, but 10 inches long. 1 x Lower plate, one 5 inch thread, one 5 inch O-ring seal and one 5 inch nut to suit the above outer casing. This is not off-the-shelf. You will need machine work to make the press fit section. See diagram. 1 x Top cone. This is a standard 5 inch to 1 inch tube reducer. Apex angle to suit material but between 60 and 90 degrees and optimally 58 degrees for 316L stainless. 24 x ‡ inch diameter by ‡ inch long ebonite spacers. 1 x 3 inch long by ‡ inch diameter stainless steel bolt, nut and washer. 2 x Nylon or Teflon machined insulators for bolt exit. 1 x 13/16 inch (20 mm.) compression fitting for your outlet. This is where your aluminium engine pipe fits in. 1 x 1 inch (25 mm.) long, ‡ inch (13 mm.) inside diameter stainless steel tube. This slips over the stainless steel bolt and holds the inner cylinders clear of the bottom. 3 x Acrylic combs to support the inner cylinders. Optional, to be described later. Note. All components are to be very low paramagnetic. Your test magnet can be slightly attracted, but must not stick and support its own weight! All parts are to be cleansed in mild vinegar or acetic acid that has been added to juvenile water. Do not leave fingerprints on any stainless steel surface. B. Selection of materials Material selection can be broken down into: B1. Stainless steel cylinders and cones or domes. A vast amount of good advice and pure dribble has been written on this subject. So much so, that I had cell builders from USA telling me that the steel is unobtainable over there and Australia is the only place that it can be sourced from! I have also been told by "experts" that this steel can only be made in the Southern Hemisphere (due to the Earth's magnetic field rotation) and that is why the Joe cell only works in Australia and New Zealand! When I tell them that I cannot afford to buy new steel and obtain most of my stock via scrap metal dealers from dismantled American and British food machinery, they then think I am hiding the truth from them and that I am somehow refusing to show them the "secrets" of the cell design. What can you do with some people? So, where do we go to get this "unobtanium" material? Where is the line between fact and fiction? First of all, let's go to the start of Joe and his cell designs. You would have noticed historically that he used plastic and stainless steel in his designs and, irrespective of the material used, ALL types of cells worked for him. So it does not have to be stainless steel at all! As I will show in a later book, stainless steel is really quite lousy, but will suffice for this cell. However, as people, including Joe, played around with various chemicals, they discovered that some stainless steels had three main advantages; namely, it formed a good pressure container, it was impervious to the majority of chemicals, and it was "non-magnetic". I will list some of the "non-magnetic" stainless steel, but please note that all stainless steel will be paramagnetic to some slight degree: AISI 304. Used in dairy, textile, dyeing and chemical industries for containers subject to different types of corrosive conditions. AISI 316. Parts for chemical and food plants, wearable for high temperature. AISI 316L. As for 316, but with superior corrosion resistance when exposed to many types of chemical corrosives, as well as marine atmospheres. It also has superior creep strength at elevated temperatures. AISI 310. Furnace parts, radiant tubes, annealing boxes and heat treatment fixtures. AISI 410. Cooking utensils, turbine blades, coal screens and pump rods. AISI 420. For the automobile and aircraft industries. Components such as valves, pistons, and nuts and bolts. AISI 431. Parts requiring highest strength and rust resistance. Now, for reasons that I do not fully understand, the Joe cell fraternity has decided that only 316L will do. I have proved over and over that this is a myth. Not only that, I would challenge any builder to pick 316L stainless from similar grades at a scrap metal dealer! What we are looking for are cylinders, cones and domes that have the least remanent paramagnetism. This is easily checked by taking your faithful rare earth magnet to your metal dealer. My magnet is only 5 mm. diameter by 3 mm. thick and is attached to a convenient length of fishing line. By swinging the magnet near the stainless you will easily see how paramagnetic the steel is. Especially check the longitudinal or spiral seam welding. The magnet will be attracted to the seam, but reject the material if the weld seam is discoloured for more than º of an inch (6 mm.), or it is a different thickness to the rest of the metal, or the magnet sticks and stays there supporting its own weight. Note. * Always have a keeper on your test magnet when you carry it in your pocket, as it just loves to "wipe out" credit cards and similar magnetic stripe products! * Do not use a ferrite magnet! similar to the easily obtainable round speaker magnets that every experimenter has in abundance. These are nowhere near strong enough and you will be deluded into thinking that you have found "Joe cell steel heaven", as the steel will pass your magnetic tests. If you plan to heat treat your cell components after all machining and welding operations, the choosing process does not have to be quite so rigorous. I personally would get the least paramagnetic steel anyway, as it is no extra in a scrap dealer and you may not have to heat treat the completed cell. * If you are buying new stainless stock, be prepared for some awfully dodgy 316L stainless. It seems to vary tremendously with the country of origin. I have found that certified stainless in a plastic wrapper and with '316L' written longitudinally and repetitively along the whole length is generally fine. You will find that when you spin a good piece in a lathe and gently hold it with your hand, a good piece will feel "round", but with a bad piece, you will feel longitudinal ripples. Similarly, when you are cutting a piece of genuine 316L, you will hear a ringing and the saw will be really working to cut it. I have cut some so-called 316L that cuts like butter! Believe me, real 316L is a bitch to work with. Summary of the above: Since 316L is "the best", try to buy some certified 316L stock. Do not buy any on some salesperson's guarantee that it is non-magnetic. Test it! If they will cut it free of charge, see how they cut it and get it cut at least 1 inch (25 mm.) oversize. Make sure that there are no dents or major scratches in the sections that you purchase. The cones are usually an off-the-shelf reducer and you should have no problems in getting what you want. This also applies for any compression fittings, flanges, threads, blanking caps, bolts, nuts and washers. All certified stock, even the washers, will have '316' written or stamped into the component. If you are using dome ends of varying geometrical configurations, you will have to have them hand beaten or spun to your dimensions. I don¹t have to tell you that anything to do with stainless is expensive. Think about it three times and buy once only! B2. Insulation material and cylinder spacers. The insulation material that is used where the ‡ inch (12.7 mm.) bolt exits the lower cell fitting is not that critical. I have used Nylon, Teflon and similar polypropylene and polycarbonates. They all work fine. Find a plastics supplier and rummage through his bin of rod offsets, or if that fails, you will have to buy some. The colour is not important. I use a white or off-white as a preference. Teflon is by far the best, if you can afford it. I do not use it. I buy 2 inch (50 mm.) greasy nylon rod that is far cheaper and that I machine to my final sizes. The insulators between the cylinders are a different story. These tend to have deposits formed on them over a long (over 6 months) period of time. They can also crack or lose their elasticity causing the cylinders to move, or they will disintegrate or turn to jelly. When I first started on this project, I copied Joe and used rubber "counter hose" as found on the roads in that era for traffic monitoring. This hose material is no longer in use, and there was really nothing special about it, just handy as it was always laying around on some road or other . As my cell design developed, I started matching my materials with the Orgone polarity. I found sulphur based product ideal for the acid cell, so now I use ‡ inch (12 mm.) ebonite rod. I am not telling you to start using ebonite rod, only that it is a suitable spacer. You can also use 100% silicon thick walled tubing, or red rubber chemical corks of the right size as recommended by Barry Hilton. I have tried a mixed set of the above in one cell to see which would fail first. I discovered that after 6 months, both the silicon tubing and the rubber corks lost some elasticity and although the cylinders had not slipped, in a four wheel drive, rough terrain application, there would have been some problems. A neutral and superior spacer can be machined from Teflon rod and it works very well. B3. Cell-to-motor tube. This one is nice and quick. I have stuck to 20 mm. outer diameter aluminium tube, with a wall thickness of 1/16 of an inch (about 1.6 mm.). It is readily obtainable, reasonably easy to bend, electrically conductive and works well as a guide for Orgone. I standardise on 20 mm. outer diameter tube for all the cells that I make and supply and thus the cells are interchangeable for fault finding and performance checking. I would strongly suggest that the bigger groups involved in cell design, should agree to a set of standards for cell design that are mutually agreed to worldwide. This would allow mass production of cells with the related advantage of cost cutting and uniformity. So there you have it for the materials. Low component count, therefore simple and close to Nature. C. Machining operations Machining operations can be broken down into: C1. Cutting operations. This is one of the important steps in cell construction. As previously stated, any high speed cutting at the steel supplier's premises will probably involve the creation of heat. Any colour change due to heat in the cutting operation must be removed from the final length of the component. That is why I suggested the oversize margin in B1. If the tube is cut with a liquid cooled bimetal blade or at low feed speeds with a metal cutting disk, you will not see any colour change whatsoever! When I cut my tubing at home, I simply use a 4 inch (100 mm.) angle grinder in a cutting attachment and slowly rotate the tube as I cut the steel. There is no colour change and I can cut my tubes so close to the finished size that the lathe work is only a truing operation. As mentioned above, I true the tubes and match for length at slow speed in the lathe. The final matching of the cylinders is done by holding a metal ruler across the tops of two cylinders. You should see no light under any of the four contact spots. I match all my cylinders starting at the 1 inch one and work outwards. C2. Polishing. This is not a difficult operation. I use about 400 grade emery paper and whilst the part is rotating in the lathe, I polish the internal and external tube surfaces. Do not polish to leave cross hatch marks, ie. do not move your emery paper laterally backwards and forwards at speed. Make your lateral traverses slowly. That¹s it, no mysterious techniques. C3. Welding. I have my parts either TIG, MIG or plain old oxyacetylene welded with 316L rod or wire. Again, no mysterious techniques. C4. Insulators and spacers. I turn my chosen spacer material on the lathe. I cut off my ebonite rod or Teflon to ‡ inch (12 mm.) lengths on the lathe. Ditto, no mysteries. As you can see, there is no laser cutting or matching to angstrom units for part dimensions. Nor is there any submerged welding by highly qualified aircraft experts. All operation can be performed by a handyman or the nearest machine shop. C5. Press fit operations. I sometimes press fit components. At all times, as a result of the press fit process, I make sure that I have no change in internal dimension and the press fit is exactly that, ie. not a finger push fit. I clean and "pickle" the surface prior to the press fit operation for about 15 minutes and then wash off the chemicals in juvenile water. On the external side of the press fit, I deposit a ring of 24 hour Araldite to guard against any weepage of electrolyte. The adhesive you use, whatever it is, must not be accessible to the internal working of the cell, otherwise it will deposit itself all over the cylinders and insulators and diminish or "kill" cell operation. D. Options The following options are possible: D1. Construction of a charging vat. The options are related to the cone diameters. As explained in A1, I make the small charging vats; Joe, Barry and others make the large ones that use 10 inch (250 mm.) cones. There are variations in the quantity of cones as used by Joe, and this is covered in detail in Barry¹s book. I prefer to use 8 cones, 1 reflector, 1 positive, 2 negative and 4 "spacers". There are also variations in the support methods for the cones. I prefer the central Nylon rod. Others prefer spacers between all the cones around the periphery of adjacent cones and an agricultural pipe up the middle of the cones (see Barry¹s book). As mentioned previously, unless you are after a vast quantity of charged water or have scum problems, you will not need it. D2. Construction of 4 cylinder test cell. You can have the outer container made from glass or acrylic (Perspex), but in all cases, make sure it is clear. The other variation is in the method of extracting the negative, either with a stainless steel strap out the top, or with a stainless steel bolt out the bottom. Again, it is up to you. The bolt out the bottom is a pain, as the container now has to be supported by a suitable stand. Also, the bolt method introduces further costs. For a test cell, it is not mandatory to use a bolt entry from the bottom of the cell. D3. Construction of 4 cylinder car cell. See notes for 5 cylinder car cell. D4. Construction of 5 cylinder test cell. See notes for 4 cylinder test cell. D5. Construction of 5 cylinder car cell. The variations are quite numerous. The obvious ones are the composition of the spacers and insulators. This I have covered and will not repeat. We have a choice in the way that we "join" the outer cylinder with the cones or domes or plates. We have a choice in the support mechanism for the inner cylinders. We have a choice in the geometric shape of our top and bottom "covers". We have a choice in the way that we attach the ‡ inch bolt to the 1 inch tube. We have a choice in the outlet fitting type. E. Assembly E1. Charging vat. There are several versions of the charging vat. There is a thorough coverage by Barry Hilton in his book. I suggest that readers have a look and then they can decide which version they want to build. The one that I am about to describe is my version and matches the previous parts list. E1a. E2. 4 cylinder test cell. I will not cover this test cell, as it is the same as the 5 cylinder test cell, minus one cylinder. E3. 4 cylinder car cell. I will not cover this car cell as it is the same as the 5 cylinder car cell, minus one cylinder. E4. 5 cylinder test cell. E4a. The 5 cylinder test cell is similar to the 5 cylinder car cell as described in E5 below. When you complete your 5 cylinder sub-assembly as per E5c, place it to one side and proceed with the next step. E4b. Have somebody drill the appropriate sized hole in the bottom of the jar to match the stepped washer as per E5e. I drill my own hole in the glass, using the right sized outer diameter copper tube. I attach this copper tube in a slowly rotating vertical drill and lubricate the copper cutting edge with a mixture of kerosene and fine valve grinding compound. The grinding compound can be obtained from any motor accessory shop. Go nice and easy, and frequently add new cutting paste. Haste means a broken jar, so do not say I did not warn you. When finished, dispose of the ground glass and paste, etc. in a safe way. E4c. Assemble cylinder sub-assembly to glass jar as per car cell assembly. Do not over-tighten the nut! Fill with juvenile water, test for leaks, etc. E5. 5 cylinder car cell. E5a. Rather than covering the construction of Mark 1, Mark 2, Mark 3, etc. types of cell, I will cover the construction of a 5 cylinder cell that I consider as the "best" of the simple type of Orgone accumulators that we have called the Joe cell. I cannot see any value in covering the other variants of simple type of 5 cylinder cells, only to tell you at the end to build the one I am about to describe. E5b. Make sure that your hands are not oily and re-check that all cylinders are clean. Obtain a kitchen cutting board or a piece of MDF or chip-board, or any smooth and level surface will do. We will assemble the cell upside down on this flat surface, as this will ensure that the finished cell will be flat across the tops of the cylinders, ie. the side that is on the flat surface (as this is the critical area!). As your cylinders will not be identical in length, this method will also place the irregularities towards the bottom of the cell, where it is not as important. * The first step is to prepare our ‡ inch bolt, so that the hexagon head is a tight press fit into one end of the 1 inch cylinder. A minimum amount is ground or turned off from the hexagon head so that the bolt head is a tight interference fit. I have seen bolts with unaltered heads hammered into the tube. Depending on the bolt, this caused the tube to assume a hexagonal appearance where the bolt head was forced into the tube. It still works okay, but it is not aesthetically pleasing. If you perform the task correctly, there will be a minimum of distortion to the outside of the tube and the water will be able to flow easily in and out of the tube via the hexagonal flats of the bolt head as they are not touching the inside walls of the tube. * The head of the bolt is pressed into the tube until the bottom of the head is in the tube by º of an inch or 6 mm. See diagram and picture. If you look through the tube you must see adequate clearance for water flow. On the bolts I use, when I finish the lathe work, all the hexagon shape is removed and I have to grind 3 slots in the head with my angle grinder to provide channels for water flow. When you roll the 1 inch tube on a flat surface the bolt shaft should roll with no wobble. This verifies that you have pressed the bolt head squarely into the tube. It is easy to drive a bolt into the tube and not keep it concentric with the tube. The end result is that the whole inner cylinder assembly will be askew and interfere with the proper seeding of the cell. E5c. Now take your 1 inch tube and place it upright on your assembly board, with (obviously) the bolt toward your face. Remember that the flat board end of the tube will finish up as the top of the inner cylinder assembly. Take your 2 inch tube, slip it over the 1 inch tube and position it so that there is an equal gap between the 2 inch and the 1 inch tubes. As you build up your inner cylinder assembly, you will repeat this step with your 3 inch and 4 inch tubes. * Take 3 of your chosen ‡ inch (12 mm.) long insulating spacers and force them into the gap between the tubes at 120 degree spacing. Push your insulating spacers into the tube until they are below the tube edge by º of an inch (6 mm.). As I use ‡ inch ebonite spacers, I have to file a flat to reduce the overall diameter before I press fit them into the tube. I place this longitudinal flat towards the convex or outer cylinder surface for best friction fit. If you use Teflon or Nylon rod, you will have to machine this tolerance factor into your rod diameter before you cut it up into your ‡ inch spacers. Naturally, this problem does not exist with rubber hose or any other malleable material. You will find that if you use a malleable material, with time, your cylinders will sag and you will lose your critical level top line-up from inner cylinder to inner cylinder. In that case, I would suggest that you make a supporting comb assembly under the cylinders to support them. * You now reverse your 1 inch tube and do the above for the top 3 insulators. As the bolt body is obviously in your way when you try to place the tube on your flat surface, you will have to drill a ‡ inch hole in your assembly board. I hope that it is not your wife¹s or girlfriend's chopping board or bread board! So now the finished product is a 2 inch cylinder supported by 3 top and 3 bottom spacers with a dead flat relative top surface. * The above procedure is repeated for your 2 inch to 3 inch tubes, and your 3 inch to 4 inch tubes. I find that for the 3 inch to 4 inch tubes, it is better to use 4 insulators at each end for a total of 8 instead of 6 inter-tube spacers. The reason is that the larger diameter of the 4 inch tube now allows considerable flexure and 3 insulators at each end are not enough for a firm fit. * There is no magic in the alignment of inter-tube insulator line-up. Some perfectionists insist in having 3 radial lines (as in 3 spokes of a bicycle wheel) radiating out from the centre, with 120 degree spacing. I have not found this critical. You now have the inner tube cylinder sub-assembly completed. The last step is to put the assembly back on your flat surface with the eventual working top down, and the bolt pointing up towards you. Now with a wooden or rubber mallet, gently tap all the cylinder edges, so as to force the eventual top surface to be perfectly flat. Great, put this sub-assembly to one side and let's move on.

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