http://sunsite.unc.edu/pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/energy-r
esources/homepower-magazine/archives/18/18pg57.txt
More Delco Tips
Dear Home Power, As a long time advocate and user of home power I
was pleased when I saw my first issue (#15) of the magazine. I have
not been doing much except talking about it for the last seven years
for various reasons, but am now teaching a class on wind energy and
electric vehicles for Jordan College's Energy Institute.
The letter from Lon Beville about using Delco generators for motors
is right on, but here's a few more tips. The variable resistor (rheostat)
for the field is needed only if you want to vary the speed of the
motor. I've used them for grinders, drill presses, water pumps,
etc. by just grounding the field. By use of the rheostat, however,
you can run these motors on higher voltages. 24 and 32 volt systems
will run them ok, I've never tried higher. The trick is to keep
the current in the field to the same level or less than if 12 volts
was applied. More current than that is just turned to heat and can
burn out the field coils. I took an old Ford generator and mounted
it on a 30" buzz saw. Double V-belts from the motor to the flat
pulley worked fine. At the time I was using a 30 volt system with
a large battery. A rheostat was used to adjust the field current
so that the motor drew minimum current and the saw would "sing" right.
That was about 10 amps. The wood I cut was slabwood, sometimes I'd
have to nurse it and make two cuts, but it worked well. While loaded
down cutting hard, the motor would draw about 100 amps. Sometimes
I'd smell the hot
insulation, but since I had plenty of motors I ignored the odor.
Never burnt that thing out, and I cut alot of wood.
You probably know by know that Mother Earth News built a large Minto
Wheel back in the '70's and it was a bust. Took so much heat to
make it go that it wasn't worth the effort. It did work, though.
If Home Power is interested I'll write an article on my battery powered
arc welder that would lay a 200 amp bead and did a lot of fastening
for me. Also, perhaps a description of water systems I've installed.
Meanwhile, here's my six dollars for a subscription, keep up the
good work! Oh, by the way, Jordan College's offices are in Cedar
Springs, MI 49319. Paul E. Zellar, Mount Pleasant, MI
***Hello Paul, Home Power considers all reader input- articles, system
shorties, homebrew, and letters. See "Writing for HP" on page 55
for the details. RP
New Mexico Hydro Freaks, LOOK OUT!
Would like to contact current water power user's in New Mexico.
Can you
help?
H. Frauenglass, 1316 Willow Farm Box 56, Embudo, NM 87531 More
Stamps Than Friends
Hello! I am/was a B.S. Mechanical Engineer, but am also a pragmatist,
or is it just intelligently lazy... I am impressed with a lot of
the high tech equipment & techniques, many of which I am not familiar
with, such as the LCB. On the other hand, I did not find as much
low tech as I presently want.
However, I did find helpful data for solar hot water -- and perhaps
will plan on a fancier system which would also supply more hot water
during the winter than the current method -- which is basically black
plastic pipe on the roof pumped thru the existing propane HW tank
to keep it full. RE back issues: have you a descriptive index which
could make possible selection of WHICH back issues are desired?
Have you reprinted and bound back issues for sale? Or even considered
doing so? I can see just from #17 that selection of material for
reprint might require savage ruthlessness or perhaps ruthless savagery........
Now a new purpose in/for life: existing till the arrival of the next
issue. Thank you, thank you, thank you! You may publish any of
this you like, w/name and address. I have more 25 cent stamps than
friends, and am a medium fast typist...
Best regards, Woody Mcpheeter, 3095 Galls Creek Rd, Gold HIll, OR
97525 ***Hello Woody, we're working on solar hot water articles,
but we need input from readers to accomplish this in print. No one
in the crew now has a solar hot water heating setup, but we are aware
of several, notably the Copper Cricket from the Sage Advance folks
in Eugene Oregon. Index of
HP1 through HP11 is in issue #11. There is an index in this issue
for HP12 through HP17. The back issues are disappearing fast. We
are moving ahead with new info. If there is enough interest, we
will collect the information in all back issues by subject and publish
it as a book sans advertising. RP
PV Rating Clarification
Dear Richard and Home Power Readers:
>From time to time Home Power articles mention that particular modules
put out more than the manufacturer's rating. These statements may
be confusing PV users and some clarification is needed. The power
output of a module is determined by many variables including intensity
of sunlight, atmospheric clarity, ambient temperature and wind.
To measure a single parameter such as output current may lead to
the conclusion that one manufacturer's product frequently exceeds
it's rated output.
The engineers at the Southwest Region Experiment Station have tested
well over 300,000 PV modules in the last ten years as systems were
tested all over the country and overseas. In FEW CASES have we found
PV modules that have even met, let alone exceeded the manufacturer's
rating, particularly when installed in systems. Why the difference
between tests and Home Power reader experience?
Modules are rated by POWER output at a specific set of standard conditions
which are generally a cell temperature of 25¡ Celsius and an irradiance
value of 1000 Watts per square meter. Unless these two parameters
are measured and used to convert the actual measured power output
back to standard conditions, a comparison of power output is not
possible.
For example, a commonly available PV module may be rated by the manufacturer
at 48 Watts at 16.7 volts and 2.88 amps when the cell temperature
is 25¡C and the irradiance is 1000 Watts per square meter. If the
irradiance drops to 800 Watts per square meter at a 25¡C cell temperature,
the maximum power output drops to about 38.4 Watts at about 16.5
volts and 2.33 amps. Without knowing how much sunshine we have,
we cannot know what the module is supposed to produce. Although
the module is rated at 25¡C cell temperature, most modules operate
at cell temperatures in the 40-55¡C range. With a 50¡C cell temperature,
the above module would be able to generate about 2.90 amps at 14.8
volts or about 43 Watts.
Again, unless we can measure cell temperature, we really do not know
how the module output compares with its rated value. It is not too
meaningful to just measure current output without doing the same
for voltage and then converting the resulting power back to standard
conditions.
Power output (the product of voltage and current) is generally directly
related to irradiance. Current increases almost directly with increases
in irradiance while voltage goes up at a much lower rate. Current
increases as temperature increases, but voltage decreases at a faster
rate, so power goes down as temperature increases. Each module has
slightly different characteristics.
When the module is installed in a system, we have power losses in
the wire, diode, switches, and fuses or circuit breakers. If the
system output is measured and module output calculated from that
measurement, we must consider those losses which may be as high as
9% when average module soiling is included. In a system where modules
are connected in series and parallel to achieve higher output, a
mismatch factor comes into play that may reduce the power output
another 5%.
In stand-alone systems that charge batteries, most modules deliver
somewhat less than their rated output. Using the example module
above, the manufacturer's rating is 48 Watts at standard conditions.
The module will operate ay 50¡C on a summer day which reduces the
output at the module to only 43 Watts. If batteries are being charged
at about 14.5 volts, the module can deliver only about 41 Watts.
In an average system, mismatch and wiring losses may account for
another 5% reducing the power rating per module at the PV disconnect
switch to 39 Watts. When module output is being stated for an actual
system, all of these factors must be considered.
Sincerely, John Wiles, Project Manager, Southwest Technology Development
Institute, Las Crues, NM
***Thanks John, We've been thinking that maybe the best way to rate
modules is by current (Amperes) and accumulated current (Ampere-hours
per day). The Wattage figures are skewed by voltage measurements
(P=IE) that are constantly changing with battery state of charge,
battery temperature, PV cell temperature, and system loading. PVs
seem to behave, within broad limits, like constant current sources.
The amount of current is tied to many factors, the foremost is solar
insolation. Factoring voltage into the rating makes it vaguer and
more nonspecific since voltage is nonlinear in both batteries and
PV cells.
I have no doubt that many of our readers have solar sites that often
experience more solar insolation than the standard of 100 mW./cm.2.
This accounts for much of the overspec measurements. Bottom line
however is that these measurements are real and do represent power
produced. During a clear cold (<20¡F.) winter day, with snow all
around, we've measured a sustained (>2 hrs.) 33.8 Amperes into a
battery (14+ VDC) from 8 modules rated at 2.89 Amperes each. Now,
this is 1.3 Amps more per panel than spec (or 46% overspec). While
this doesn't mean that these panels are any better than any others,
it does mean we had much higher than normal insolation coupled with
low temperatures. It all adds up to more power and that's what it's
all about. RP
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXto HOMEBREW Another Sewing Machine Fix Dear Folks,
I've been meaning to write about sewing machines and was finally
prompted by your article on converting a sewing machine to hand power
in the June/July issue.
I have a somewhat unusual treadle sewing machine - a hybrid of old
and new technology. The machine is a Bernina #807 and the cast iron
base is a Singer industrial treadle. To accomplish this union required
only a hacksaw and a little nerve as I cut away part of the metal
casing around the base of my $600 Swiss-built machine, exposing the
drive wheel. I removed the drive belt that connected to the electric
motor and made a leather drive belt to fit around the treadle wheel.
The machine itself sits on a wood table that is bolted to the treadle
base, with a hole cut off from an old standard machine.
The first treadle base I had was a cast off from an old standard
machine, The drive wheel on most of these machines is 12" diameter,
which is OK
for straight stitching but too slow for zigzag or pattern stitches.
i later found the industrial base with a 16" diameter drive wheel.
It was holding up a flower planter in someone's yard and was quite
rusty. I stopped and talked to the man who had it and offered to
swap my nice painted base for his rusty one. Needless to say, he
must have thought I was a little nuts but agreed top my proposal.
I came up with this combo long before I moved off the grid. I originally
learned to sew on an old treadle when I was 6 years old, and as a
professional seamstress I wanted to recapture that precise control
over the needle action without giving up the pattern stitches of
my modern machine. The only part of my machine that I would ever
consider hooking up to 12V would be the built in light bulb. I've
had the Bernina for 15 years, 12 of which were treadle powered.
Anybody want a slightly used 110 vac sewing machine motor?
Larisa Walk, Rt3 Box 163A, Winona, MN 55987
Noooo....Body Knows!!
About a year ago I wrote a letter that was printed in "Home Power"
asking for reader information from those who had "China Diesel" generators.
There were about 6 responses besides those that appeared in "Home
Power" magazine.
Alas, the variety of the responses leaves one wondering what really
is happening out there. The responses varied from one person who
suggested that the smaller engines be used as anchors for rowboats,
and the other extreme from another person who had nothing but praise.
If any generality could be made, it may be that the 13hp or larger
engines have a better track record. Personally I have a 13hp, 8000
watt unit, and have written a couple of letters to the "China Diesel"
company asking for parts, and have never received a response. So,
pay your money and take your choice. Mark Riener, Mount Shasta,
CA
A Good Book
My husband and I just recently joined the ranks of PV'ers. There
are a few of us here in southern Vermont and we circulate a subscription
(1) of Home Power among us.
I am writing to tell you of a GREAT new book that helped us tremendously
when we were building our remote hove and choosing just the right
PV system for our needs. We thought you would put something in your
magazine about it, since you are dedicated to getting the word out
about new products, etc. to your readers.
The book is The Solar Electric Independent Home Book and is written
by Fowler Solar Electric Inc. of Worthington, MA. The copyright
date is 1989; I note that there is no ISBN or Library of Congress
number. We purchased our book directly from Fowler Solar Electric,
Inc. We bought our system from FSE and also bought the book at the
same time, mainly because it was recommended that we do so and we
did not know that much about the "technical end" of the PV system
we were installing. Well, after reading The Solar Electric Independent
Home Book, we were able to design our system and know that we were
getting exactly what we needed to power our home. We were also able
to cut down a great deal on our electrician costs, because we did
a good part of the installation by ourselves. Now, we are enjoying
our system and know what to do during those low sun months and can
troubleshoot our own system. It is just a good feeling to know we
are able to rely on ourselves for our own power and taking care of
our PV system. We couldn't have been able to do this had we not
found out about Fowler Solar Electric's book.
In any event, since you are on the West Coast, you may not know about
The Solar Electric Independent Home Book. If you want to order one,
the cost is $15.95 and is available from:
Fowler Solar Electric, Inc.
13 Bashan Hill Road
Worthington, MA 01098
The phone number is 413-238-5974 and there is probably a shipping
charge. Ours was mailed with our system, so I am not sure what the
shipping cost would be. It would be nice if you included my letter
in your next issue, or see for yourself by ordering the book!
Ann Schuyler, Londonderry, VT
A Recycled Paper Fund
Here's my $ for a subscription plus a little for a "Recycled paper
fund"! So it costs more... this mag is a bargain at twice the price.
If this group of subscribers can't bear the cost, who can we expect
to. Increase the demand and the cost will go down. We can't afford
NOT to use recycled products.
Jim Sluyter, Bear Lake, MI
****We are chasing the elusive recycled paper full time. We will
move to it as soon as we can afford it. Right now it's running about
four times the cost of what we're using (it comes in giant rolls
for a web press as bigger than our house). The paper we use now
is recyclable. How about it HP readers, if we went to recycled paper
would help pay the cost increase? RP & KP
A Nerd's Answer
Fellow Travelers, I just received the latest issue today and I am
almost through it already. I loved the article on education. The
kids are the ones who are really going to need this knowledge.
Unless I missed it in my first rush through, (I usually read each
issue at least twice), the person who wrote the Nerd's was not identified.
He raises a point that is annoying to many computer users though.
I use one at work for large volume jobs and losing a page once in
a while on large batch jobs is not a problem. I also have a setup
at home and do most of my personal correspondence on it. Since most
of this is one page at a time stuff, losing a full page each time
I print a page is very wasteful.
The printer I have now has solved the problem permanently but what
I used to do was to save a couple of empty sheets of the heavy paper
that blank labels come on and cut them up the middle between the
tractor holes. When I printed a letter and ran the paper ahead to
tear it off, I would simply attach the strips to the end of the paper
still in the machine, overlapping the top by a few inches, with Scotch
tape or the adhesive edge of Post-Its or whatever else was handy.
After a few mishaps I learned to only tape the strips to the part
of the paper that would be torn off with the tractor holes at the
top corners of the page and the bottom corners of the strips so as
not to damage the letter when removing the Scotch tape. This only
takes a few seconds and then I would run the paper back into the
printer where it would be ready for my next letter with no waste.
Keep up the good work. Health and Happiness, Rev. Joseph Christie,
New York, NY
*****Thanks for the tip, Joesph. The author of that particular Nerd's
Corner bit was Bob-O Schultze and I get credit for leaving his name
out. RP
Q&A on Battery Voltages
Reading your fine magazine has brought a couple of ideas to my mind
that I
haven't seen discussed.
We are in the process of building a house that will use PVs for electricity.
We expect to use about 4 Kw per day. The house will be wired entirely
for 110 vac, except possibly the Sunfrost refrigerator. We already
have 28 @ M-51 ARCO panels (2.31 amps-17.3 VDC). It seems with these
panels
wired series parallel, a voltage controller and 18 NICAD cells (18
x 1.65 max. voltage=29.70 VDC) one could use a 24 VDC inverter and
refrigerator or with the panels, no controller and 21 NICAD cells
one could use a 32 VDC inverter, a 110 vac refrigerator and make
maximum use of the high voltage panels. I would appreciate it if
you could let me know about the practicability of these ideas. Or
if we would be better off with the more common combinations.
Thanks, Larry Thompson, Boonville, CA
***Hi Larry, the most popular nicad configuration for 24 Volt systems
is twenty series cells. This increases the battery's utility under
nightly loads because its voltage stays higher. A nicad cell is effectively
discharged when its voltage reaches 1.1 VDC under discharge. Under
charge rates as low as C/30, the nicad cell will reach voltages above
1.6 VDC when totally full. Rest voltage of a full cell, not under
either charge or discharge, is about 1.35 VDC.
Under the 21 cell scenario you mentioned, the discharge voltage would
be too low at night to operate the 32 Volt inverter. My advice is
to use 20 series cells, regulate the array at about 30 VDC and use
a 24 Volt inverter. This allows inverter operation until the nicad
battery is totally empty. The 18 cell scenario will have voltage
too low to run the 24 Volt inverter when there is still about 25%
of the power remaining in the battery. RP.
Q&A Fluorescents
In a recent HP data was shown to indicate that wiring a house for
120vac alone was more cost effective than 12VDC & 120 vac. Sounds
good but I do not like the disposable style of 120vac electronic
PL lamp/ballast combos. I love Janmars new line of PL conversion
units....except they use XMFR type ballasts= Great Inefficiency.
Their PL-5 unit consumes, by my measurements via a Fluke D800, 14
watts of ac power. This does not include inverter inefficiencies.
By contrast, a PL-5 with Sunalex 12VDC electronic ballast consumes
a meager 6 watts TOTAL (as its DC). The Janmar units are incredibly
versatile with replacement lamps, interchangeable globes/reflectors
etc. Standard transformer ballasts also hum on the inverter so that
with their inefficiencies I feel they're out of the question. They
do make a #213 series which converts a standard edison base to PL
and includes the adaptor threads for their various line of globes
--Great--just put in an in-line/external ballast with it & presto
! efficiency & practical good looks. But where (who) to get an equivalent
to Sunalex's SXE 1001 that operates on 120vac? Use a DC ballast
with step down XMFR & diodes to rectify? Still=hum! The Dulux/Philips
line are nice & VERY efficient!
Philips SL18R40 uses a 0.1 amp at 120vac Å12 watts & 800 lumens.
The Dulux have no reflectors...(try 'em in a track light) & the smallest
of any electronic ballasted 120vac compact fluorescent is a Dulux
EL-7 (7 watt). So, I'm asking for HELP!!! Let's get the word out
& find a supplier/manufacturer for an ecologically sensitive, non-throw
away ballast, efficient electronic ballast, 120vac PL bulb fluorescent
conversion unit!!
In a recent comparison article on batteries it was mentioned that
the life of lead acid batteries in a float configuration is 15 years
(found it!! HP17, pg. 34). I set up my power system around 4 years
before (now) it was actually put into deep cycle service. I used
it all as set up...12VDC lighting/inverter etc., but being in a travel
trailer where ac grid power was available I just used a battery charger
and kept the cells floating (Å1 to 2% capacity cycling, max.). My
question is-did I use 4 years of my service life then or not? Does
the lifetime clock begin as soon as electrolyte is added to the cells,
ie. at the manufacturing facility or dealer point? If so, should
I stop babying my 4 L-16's and figure their life is 1/3 to 1/4 over
already? (Even tho they were just put into service 1 month ago.)
Can one get more than 10-15 years out of L-16's with VERY conscience
use, or is there a point where the clock is ticking on their life
anyway, so you might as well use them (cycle the batteries).
OH, I've written Janmar about their HORRIBLY inefficient PL ballasts
& asked about electronic equivalents. Also Sunalex, in hopes they
make or will make such a unit.
Thanks for all you do! I appreciate (in advance) the responses to
my question, I realize you MUST be incredibly busy. I want to do
my house & neighbor's house wiring in 120vac but really want to do
it efficiently or will recommend dual voltage systems. It is often
frustrating, but worth it being on the leading edge!
Todd Cory, Mt Shasta, CA
****Hello Todd. On the lead-acid cell, yes, they begin some of their
aging processes the instant electrolyte is added to the cell. The
initial float type service you had them under is the least wearing
type. The lifetimes given in HP are statistical averages. Your
experiences will be different. I would estimate that you have lost
very little life from the L-16s because you kept them under float
charge. Our particular pack of L-16Ws has been in repeated deep
cycle service for over 10 years. We figure that out of their original
capacity of 700 Ampere-hours about 500 remains. The self- discharge
rate has increased noticeably since they were new. But they aren't
dead yet and I'm still giving them the best of care (regular equalization),
so we'll see just how long they do go. My advice on wiring is do
it 120 vac and use an inverter. This offers simplicity and lower
cost overall. The only negative point is the magnetic fields generated
by the 120 vac. I suggest enclosing the inverter in a Faraday cage
and using twisted pair wiring inside of metal conduit if this is
a problem for you. We are working on information about magnetic
fields in our systems and their possible health effects. More on
this as soon as the info gets hard. RP
Q&A Refers
Dear Home Power,
Here is my check for two years for first class delivery of a FIRST
CLASS MAGAZINE. Keep up the good work as I have yet to find another
magazine that even come close to yours. I just wish it was monthly.
This question is for Bob McCormick (Homemade Low Voltage DC REfrigeration,
HP16, P.48) or any one else that might know.
Has a 12VDC Danfoss compressor & controls ever been installed into
a window air-conditioner? If so, what size (BTU rate)? What was
the current draw? If not, why not? Won't it work? It sure would
be nice to cool the RV down when it is 115¡ outside.
Thank You, Jim Miller, 4920 E Holly Apt 1, Phoenix, AZ 85008 Q&A
NICADS
Dear HP, I love your mag and right now am waiting for the next issue.
I have a question about nicads for RV use. I live in a converted
school bus and am worried about the higher voltage voltage of nicads.
The big 145 amp alternator has a voltage adjust that might go up
to 17 volts, but would that damage anything (start, gages, etc.)?
Second, the power mostly goes to power my "car" stereo which is a
240 watt Carver Amp and tape deck. Would the higher voltage be safe
for these?
Thanx for your help as I would like to use nicads because of the
endless batteries I have frozen because they weren't fully charged!!
Rob Waghbourne, Crested Butte, CO
***OK Rob, simply leave your voltage regulator where it is. The
nicads will refill at voltages as low as 1.35 VDC per cell (that's
13.5 Volts for a 10 cell, 12 Volt, pack) it just takes longer. Most
vehicles using 12 Volt systems are regulated at between 13.8 and
15 VDC. This is just fine for a 10 series cell nicad pack. In fact,
Lon Gillas's boss at Pacific West Supply converted his Mercedes diesel
sedan from lead-acid to nicads after it ate three lead-acid batteries
in a year. The nicad has been in place over eight months now, no
mods to the voltage regulator and no problems. RP Q&A PV Panel Problem
My site faces south and is relatively free of obstructions. My single
solar panel is set at the proper angle for this latitude yet I can't
get more than 500 mA. at noon. I suspect the panel but how do I
test it? It's 34 watts and was manufactured in Maryland about 5
years ago. I can't remember the name of the maker. I would like
to go to a larger array and more batteries. Right now I get 2 days
use every three weeks and have to charge with my truck when I desire
more.
Also, is microwave a dirty word? I like mine at home and would like
to add one at camp but can't find out if they will work off a simple
inverter or would you need an inverter with a more sophisticated
wave form? I'm talking a .86Kw microwave and a 100 watt inverter.
If I go to a larger system will I also need regulation?
Bill Walters, Butler, PA
****Here's the scoop, Bill. First check the panel for open circuit
voltage. If you're charging a 12 Volt battery, then the panel must
have an open circuit voltage of over 17 VDC. Maybe you've got a
9 or a 6 Volt panelÉ If the open circuit voltage is above 17 VDC
and you still aren't getting any amps out (check the wiring, is it
good?), then the panel is defective. Possible problems here are
broken wiring within the panel or deceased cells.
In order to run a microwave of any size, I recommend a 2,000 Watt
inverter or larger. For example, we have an 860 Watt (that's 0.86
kW.) Goldstar model that performs well on our Heliotrope PSTT 2.3kW.
inverter. In general, most microwaves will work well on inverters,
the only problems reported are in a few electronic timers which go
double-time demented on modified sine-wave power. Mechanical timers
work fine. RP Comments and Questions
Dear Home Power, Thank you for putting out such a much needed Magazine.
I look forward to each issue. I have some questions and comments
that I want to address to you.
First, I can see that you are into your computers. I was wondering
if you all knew of any bulletin board systems that are devoted to
alternative energy? Second, I have some questions regarding surge
protectors. I have been trying to use one ever since a short sent
a spike to a tape player and severely damaged it. However, I have
had some trouble getting one to last. Is there something about inverter
power that these things just can not handle? My third question is
about Ni-Cad batteries. Does any one recycle them They sound like
a good alternative to lead-acid batteries, but if they are not readily
recyclable, I can not consider using them.
I would like to put in a word for low voltage homes. There is a
move toward using an inverter to supply all of the electrical needs
of an alternative energy home. There are some distinct advantages
to this. Most notably, easier wiring. However there are some disadvantages
as
well. One is that low voltage is inherently safer. Another is that
there is no electromagnetic radiation associated with DC current
--this type of radiation might prove to be harmful. Furthermore,
one must be totally dependent on his inverter. Although these units
have grown quite reliable in recent years, there is bound to be a
problem sooner or later. When that problem occurs, will there be
someone around to fix it quick --there would not be around here.
Thus, one could be without power for some time. This is what I have
hoped to avoid using solar power.
I also want to reply to Fred D †ensing's letter and S.K.'s response
(HP16). I do not think we should discount the governments assistance
with alternative energy's development. After all look what it has
done for the development of other energy sources (note R. Perez's
article of the same issue.) There has been some problems in the past
with tax credits, but that does not mean we should not seek further
government assistance. (I for one do not like the fact I support
others electrical habits with out receiving any support for mine.)
Solar energy, or computer technology -- including personal computer
technology -- would not be where it is today without direct and indirect
support. Note the space program which boosted computer and solar
developments. Besides if we can get Uncle Sam into solar, maybe
he will forget about nuclear.
Thank You, Chip Upsal, Mt. View, MO
***Try Environet (the free Greenpeace BB) at 415-861-6503 (computers).
Energy stuff is also available for pay on EcoNet (call 415-923-0900
for humans). On surge protectors: they often are unhappy with the
mod-sine waveform of inverters. The SL Warber varieties work great
on both Trace and Heliotrope inverters. Get one that is rated far
in excess of the power you will use through it. This keeps the transorb
filters, metal oxide varistors (MOVs) from freaking out. On nicads:
Pacific West Supply will recycle, properly dispose of and/or recondition
nicads. See their ad this issue. On EM from inverters: yep, it's
there all right and it's also all over the grid. We're working on
straight info along with the best research we can dig up on the health
effects, ways to measure the EM fields at your location and what
to do about it. Big job- we'll get it into print ASAP. On the gov't
helping out: well, I think we should accept whatever help it supplies.
Just let's not wait for them to do anything. Those of us already
using renewables are so far ahead of what officialdom thinks is possible
that they can't even see us on a clear day. If government wants
to catch up quick, then I for one will do all I can to help them.
As for waiting for them to fund a project or rule on the feasibility
of a technology, forget it. By the time they do anything, we'll
be flying around in PV powered heliocopters. RP
Chris Gupta
mbgupta@julian.uwo.ca