Yesterday I saw the GEET stuff at your site and want to let you know what
I know about GEET which has been well published on the supercarbs list.
I bought the plans and made the lawn mower and then encountered a Pa
dealer who spent a good bit of time with Paul. He then gave me some good
advice on what to look for and I prooved he was right. He thought that it
vaporized and nothing else. The antifreeze jug makes a lousy bubbler so I
made one with a pickle jar and it will run the engine just fine and run
30% longer than stock carb. And GEET gets the same run time. So GEET does
nothing more than vaporization. But the real gain is when coleman fuel is
used in the pickle jar carburetor - double the run time in my lawn mower.
Also I have met personally with the Md GEET dealer who gave it up after
having nothing to sell. This dealer made a nice GEET powered mower and
Paul wanted and kept it. Now if Paul was anything why would he want such
a simple - easy to replicate GEET powered lawn mower?
The real truth is that no GEET dealer is running
a GEET powered vehicle and saving gas.
When I was in Nashville to see the Tilley car I meet the Tn GEET dealer
who has one installed on his suburban but it was not hooked up and
running. And he had given up on Pantone.
Naudin did a GEET engine and ran tests but his mistake was he did not run
all of the fuel out. He just stopped the test. And what that does is
takes out the volatile fuel and leaves the gas and thereby giving a false
indication of efficiency. If left to run the water will be left in the
tank and the engine will stop.
I hope you will add my comments to your site so people don't get misled
about GEET.
Norman
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Paul & Molley Pantone Founders, Global Environmental Energy Technology 625 West 5300 South, PMB A-136, Murray, UT 84123 |
They are doing this to benefit mankind and to help save lives if Y2K electrical supply problems are a reality. They will also accept voluntary contributions if builders would like to donate the original plans cost of $75 to help defer costs of developing larger versions for the market faster. Due to high costs, only licensed users that pay the $75 will receive technical support. A newsgroup is set up for builders that have the free plans to share experiences through. A 900 number is also being considered if needed for technical support for the free plans. The GEET Fuel Processor, it is a simplified "Plasma Reformer" that takes any hydrocarbon fuel or waste product and transforms it into Hydrogen rich "Synthetic Natural Gas". The "Small Engine Plans" will show how parts can be purchased and then built from plumbing parts from any local hardware store. Benefits include Multi-Fuel availability, and up to 99% lower emissions and double the run time or MPG! This technology has the ability to be retrofitted to any internal combustion engine, including any gasoline, diesel, or turbine engine. Plans for larger versions will still be available through GEET Dealers (and TeslaTech, Inc) to convert one vehicle for $175 or 10 vehicles $650, and deluxe plans are $950. Specialized parts (reaction chambers, air management valves, etc) are now available for purchase for people unable to make their own parts and will come in 4 sizes to retrofit most cars, trucks, etc. |
FREE - GEET Fuel Processor Plans ![]() This is a greatly simplified "Proof of Concept" version of the GEET Fuel Processor that just about anyone can build from parts from a local Hardware store in a weekend for very low cost. A used lawnmower engine will be used for demonstration purposes so things will be easier to see without obstructions. The basic configuration remains the same for any retrofit conversion to engines. More advanced versions are now available from GEET that use air management valves that combine all 3 valve functions with automatic sequencing, and also carburetor or fuel injection systems to replace bubblers in moving vehicles. 5 kW electric generators and 3 ½ HP demonstration engines are available now from GEET. Complete component retrofit kits will be available shortly for most cars and trucks starting at $1,000 plus installation. Large Diesel and Turbine conversions will be available as soon as development funding is available from investors. |
Step 1 - Tools needed - pipe
wrench, crescent wrench, spring tube benders, pipe cutter, pipe flaring
tool, allen wrench, soldering equipment, file, and screw driver. Obtain
all your parts and tools needed for the conversion ahead of
time. (Click here for Parts List at bottom) Most professional plumbing supply stores stock higher quality parts compared to large home centers cheap plumbing parts. The savings aren't that much on a small project like this. The most crucial quality part is on the inner pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, out of roundness, thick weld seams, etc on low quality pipe. |
![]() (1) Tools Needed Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 2 - Strip
down the engine removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburetor. Remove the
mower blade and replace with a 12" diameter steel disk flywheel of the
same thickness as the blade for safety. |
![]() (2) Stripped Engine Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 3 - Take
the 1"x1/2"x1/2" reducing tees and mount them on a 1" nipple (short pipe),
and then using a lathe, machine the end smooth and fly cut (bore out) the
hole in the end 27/32" (21mm) so that the 1/2" inner pipe will slide
inside. This procedure can also be done by using a drill press to drill a
27/32" or 7/8" hole in the end of the tee and then use a file to smooth
the roughness off. The 1/2" pipe connector and 1/2" tee will each need to have one end smoothed off as well to receive the copper washers as a tight seal. If anyone has a machine shop that would like to do this for others, contact GEET. We might also offer a complete kit that has all the parts ready to be assembled in minutes if there's enough interest. |
![]() (3) Tee & Connector Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 4 - Have a
plumber or plumbing center cut your inner reactor 1/2" pipe to 16 + 7/16"
and thread both ends. Use Black Pipe here because galvanized pipe gives
off toxic fumes if heated too much. File the 12" x 1/2" multi-fuel steel
rod to a bullet point on one end only. (7 + 3/8" x 1/2" for gasoline only)
This will keep you out of trouble later if you can't remember which way
the rod points. The engine will not run if the rod is put in backwards
after it has a magnetic signature. Assemble the parts in order as in the above picture using the 7/8" / 22mm copper.washers used in oil drain plugs for cars. (2 - 1"x1/2"x1/2" machined reducing tees joined by the 12" long 1" nipple, slide the 16 + 7/16" long 1/2" reactor pipe inside, add a copper washer on each end and then add the 1/2" connector and 1/2" tee.) |
![]() (4) Plumbing Pipes & Rod Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 5 -
Assemble the other valve component subassemblies above. The 1/2" thick
steel intake / exhaust adapter plate above is used only on some engines
like "Tecumseh" and Overhead Valve Engines (picture 9). Some "Briggs and Stratton" engines, etc usually already have the exhaust threaded for 1/2" pipe, but the intake is on the other side of the engine causing longer hose runs. Also a compression pipe connector or a piece of rubber hose with clamps will need to be connected from the engine intake to the Bubbler pipe. (1/2" valve (Air Mixture Valve), 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" valve (Throttle Valve), 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple.) and (Muffler, 1/2" ball valve (Optional - Back pressure valve), 3" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1 1/2" nipple.) |
![]() (5) Valve Components Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 6 -
Assemble the sub-assemblies onto the reaction chamber above making sure to
install the 12" rod inside pointed away from the engine. Now it's time to
start on the bubbler. |
![]() (6) Finished Reactor Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 7 - Take
10 3/4" x 1/2" copper pipe and solder a copper 1/4" NPT - 1/2" pipe
adaptor on one end and a 1/2" cap on the other. Drill a 1/16" hole through
the cap, turn 90 degrees and drill through again, also one up through the
bottom. Take the other 1/4" NPT - 1/2" adaptor and cut off the thinwall
portion to make a pipe nut and file smooth for inside the Anti-Freeze
jug. |
![]() (7) Bubbler End & Pipe Nut Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 8 - Take a
1 gallon anti-freeze jug and drill a 1/2" hole near the top of the jug and
through the cap as illustrated. Assemble the parts together in the
following order. (Hose, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe connector,
short 3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug, bushing, and pipe nut.) and (
(Optional - Back Pressure Hose), half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe
elbow, short 3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug cap, bushing, and soldered
pipe.) |
![]() (8) Bubbler & Hoses Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 9 - The
port adapter was formed by cleaning the intake and exhaust ports off. Then
dipping a finger in the exhaust port to get some soot to rub on wide
masking tape taped over the ports. This then leaves a perfect template to
then tape into a 1/2" thick piece of steel, then drill the mounting
and the port holes and tap the ports with a 1/2" NPT thread
tap. |
![]() (9) Exhaust & Intake Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 10- Use
1/2" tubing for 10 HP or less (* 5/8" tubing and flare fittings for 10-20
HP) with a 1/2" tubing spring bender and form a loop, then remove the
spring. Slide the flare nuts on each end, and then slide the flaring tool
on so that the pipe sticks out about 3/16", make the flared ends.
(Air-Conditioning supply houses carry flare fittings if you have
difficulty finding them.) |
![]() (10) Tubing Loop Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 11 -
Assemble all the parts onto the engine, and then add a 1" pipe support or
1 1/4" exhaust hangar. Fill the bubbler up no more than 1/4 full till you
get used to using it (up to half full later), have someone steady the jug
while starting the engine so it doesn't spill into the hoses. If wet fuel
gets on the reaction rod it will stop running, you'll have to dry your rod
and hoses out. You can hang it from the mower handle if you like later
after it's started. You must point the exhaust end of the rod due North while starting the engine the first time and let it run for 30 min to "burn in the rod". The rod will self center magnetically by itself after it's running or you can weld three bumps on each end to center the rod (file them to fit snugly). Leave the optional back pressure valve open, open the throttle and mixture valve about halfway, and start the engine by varying the air mixture valve. Then slowly increase the throttle wide open while adjusting the air mixture valve. Make sure to paint all external pipes and connectors with High Temperature Grill Paint or they will rust very quickly. (Except copper, brass or galvanized) |
![]() (11) Finished Conversion Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Step 12 - For
an installation on a generator, you can also use 90 degree elbows to keep
the pipes within the cage. Mount the GEET Fuel Processor as far away as
possible from the generator magnetic field so they do not interfere with
each other. Also be very careful with credit cards in your pockets or
video cameras, etc from getting too close to the engine while it's running
so they won't be erased. |
![]() (12) 5 kW GEET Generator Click to enlarge in new window. 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
Finally - Experiment with the optional Back Pressure valve to run closed loop on heavy fuels, different materials for the inner pipe and reaction rod. Different rod lengths and also threaded rods, engine side of the reactor locations for the air mixture and/or throttle valves, exhaust heated copper tubing from the bubbler to the throttle valve, 5 gallon bubblers, double bubblers for non-soluble fuels, vacuum gages, etc, etc, and also "alternative fuels". The beauty of this design is that it can be reconfigured in minutes.We plan to set up a 900 number shortly for technical questions, no calls or technical information will be taken at the main number. We also set up a newsgroup and FAQ for experimenters to exchange information and new discoveries. Have fun with it and let us know how it works out! |
(Some Engines Only - ½" Steel Adapter Plate with 4 - ¾" Allen Screws and 12" steel disk) | |
1 - 12" x 1" Black Pipe Nipple (painted) 1 - 12" x ½" Steel Rod 2 - 1" x ½" x ½" Galvanized Reducing Tees (Ward - best) 2 - 22mm / 7/8" Copper Oil Drain Plug Washers 1 - 2" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple 1 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Connector 1 - 1" Galvanized Pipe Hangar with Bolt & Nuts 3 - 1½" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipples 1 - 3" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple 3 - ½" NPT Ball Valves (B&K - best) 1 - ½" Galvanized NPT Muffler 2 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Tees 2 - ½" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Reducing Bushings 1 - Can Hi-Temp Grill Paint 27" - ½" Copper Tubing (* 5/8") 2 - ½" NPT / ½¾" Brass Male Flare Fitting (* 5/8") 2 - ½" Brass Flare Nuts (* 5/8") |
4 - ½" Galvanized Hose Clamps 6' - ½" ID Clear Vinyl Hose - (cut in half) 2 - 3" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples - (cut in half) 4 - 9/16" Galvanized Bushing Washers - (1/8" thick) 1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Elbow 2 - ¾" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples 1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Connector 1 - 10¾" x ½" Copper Water Pipe 1 - ½" Copper Pipe Cap 2 - ½" x ¼" NPT Copper Pipe Adapters |
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | Final |
GEET's Ready for Y2K or ? - Are You? Good Luck and God Bless from GEET! |
TeslaTech,Inc -:- 296 East Donna Drive -:- Queen Valley, AZ 85218 Order Hotline: ( 520 ) 463-1994 -:- Editorial Office: ( 520 ) 463-1994 GEET Construction Plans with Technical Support: Small Engine Version: $75.00 -:- Auto Engine Version: $175.00 -:- Deluxe Plans: $950.00 ![]() All plans are EXPERIMENTAL and for personal use! |
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