Re: 70% water mixed with 30% gas to run your engine - how to details!

LARRY SULLIVAN ( polymercanada@bc.sympatico.ca )
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:22:06 -0700

Some interesting stuff, I have played around with the idea myself. Some
thoughts of note, utilizing a catalyst inside the engine isn't such a
grand idea, the catalyst depletes and needs to be changed from time to
time. Also catalyitic exchange requires lots of surface area and a time
factor for the reaction time. The reaction is not instintanious. Also of
note is that the catalysts of note do not work in disassociating
water/most of the catalysts are for conversion of compounds into
hydrogen eg. nickel or litheum convert pure carbon dioxide into hydrogen
whith is exothermic in nature but need a initiated start up temp of 800
to get the reaction going,not to mention the little issue of poisoning
of the catalyst by other compounds.
Mixing carbon fuels with water is a interesting concept but is unlikly
that the water is combusted but is vapourized into steam which creates
the thrust.
One aspect of the article that I do aggree with is that water can be
destabalized via HV charge. Hydrogen and oxygen are glued to each other
because a lack of electrons, hence "energizing" the water with a HV neg
charge would seem to be the way to go. The simplist way is via runing a
water flow though a neg charged induction coil. Its almost to simple. Im
going to be trying this experiment soon will keep everyone posted.

Larry =20
Jerry Wayne Decker wrote:
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> Hi Bruce et al!
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> Thanks for the additional information, I wlll post to
> the discussion list. I could not find LeeNotes since
> I am not at home on my computer, but relevant files
> are;
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> http://www.keelynet.com/energy/gasnotes.txt
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> http://www.keelynet.com/energy/gunnhist.htm
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> http://www.keelynet.com/energy/gunnpat.htm
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> --- Bruce McBurney wrote:
> Hi Jerry
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> Here is a little information you might want to tack on
> to the pvc jar it may help I am placing the main
> section and this in my website in keeping with the
> sharing idea. I think every IC engine on the planet
> should have one of these.
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> Bruce McBurney
> HIMAC Research Publishing
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> This is to supplement the PVC device to help
> understand how and what it does. My research indicates
> the oils actually are being Thermal Catalytic Cracked
> (TCC).
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> The BB=92s copper coating is a catalyst I am just
> stating this so you may understand that there are
> other materials that can accelerate the breakdown and
> it may be a good idea to layer in other materials.
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> Each different material will help to break down
> different molecules and so the more you break down the
> more mileage and pollution improvement is noticed.
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> One in particular is silica gel, that little package
> that comes in medicines and electronic equipment is
> used to act as a drying agent.
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> Apparently it dries by disassociating the molecules
> breaking them into hydrogen and oxygen I always
> thought it absorbed it.
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> It is also used a great deal in the oil refining
> business as a catalyst.
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> It is also what was in the little screen bag that was
> in the Condensator by Elmer Bush is one of the
> devices that inspired the PVC jar. I think this is
> what John meant when he said glass beads.
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> There is information on the condensator and if you do
> not want to build it they are for sale somewhere
> around $70 -$100 although they are not at the address
> from in Califonia.
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> There are other metals that are used Nickel is used in
> refining also, so you could just take ten five cent
> pieces and put them between two screens in you V8
> juice can.
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> For silver you could use dimes. If you want gold and
> platinum are excellent catalysts if you had an old
> chain even just a plated one put it in between a layer
> of screens.
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> It will up the cost but may help you save more money
> and think of it this way, it is safe place, a
> catalyst is not used up. It just will need a good
> cleaning and the burglar wont find it under your hood.
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> Also the beads from a catalytic converter if they were
> cleaned well in a acid bath or roll them in fine sand
> paper for cleaning any catalyst poisoning agent of the
> coating on the ceramic beads.
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> This you must understand that there are many different
> oils and fuels out there. They are all the same basic
> hydrocarbon but if a different configuration and also
> different additives to prevent the breakdown of the
> molecule.
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> What we are doing is breaking the molecule down into a
> lighter more dynamic, having more explosive force fuel
> that burns clean so their additives defeat this
> purpose.
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> You might find that the cheaper oils will work better
> and synthetics see little gain. I still recommend
> using a good oil additive that is a metal treatment
> like Duralube or Mt-10 oil additive and fuel treatment
> these are not anti catalyst agents or molecular boners
> or anti pyrolysis agents that the oil companies use to
> stop super carburetors.
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> If you are not getting great gains possibly change oil
> and fuel brands the smaller independent refiners might
> be best, when you try different brands try the higher
> grades as well.
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> The way an engine works, some of the fuel condenses
> and goes down the cylinder walls into the oil pan.
> This will thin your oil and will be the lighter vapor
> that will fume off into your jar first. It will get
> cracked into fuel that will take you down the road not
> just heat it up or foul up your engine.
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> In assembling your unit you could use a regular jar
> size by eliminating the gear clamp and using mechanics
> wire or copper wire to hold the screen.
> Secure it together with your clamp and wrapped the
> wire tightly on each side of gear clamp and then
> remove gear clamp if it is loose you could just put a
> dab of epoxy glue in three spot around it to secure
> it.
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> Not too good you might want to take it apart for
> cleaning or try other catalysts.
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> John states to use hose in a coffee can to secure it,
> It would help that you ran hot water line going to
> your heater to heat the jar and contents Thermal
> Catalatic cracking is an endothermic reaction meaning
> it absorbs heat and will operate better heated.
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> This will also keep the water flowing thru the jar and
> only the oil sludge condensing in the bottom the water
> as steam helps combustion power because it expands and
> creates more pressure than air when heated by the
> combustion.
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> That is why you get better mileage on a rainy day.
> (See Water Vaporizer )
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> Remember to keep track of fuel used and brands and
> mileage increase obtained. You will find the right
> combination for your engine and location.
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> Please be sure to check our web site occasionally and
> see what we learn more we can help you find the better
> brands to get the best results. Please share what you
> learn and we will continue to do the same to help us
> all and our kids.
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> Bruce McBurney
> HIMAC Research Publishing
> 6665 McLeod Road
> Niagara Falls Ont L2G 3G3
> 905 358-8541 fax 905 358-9439
> We win when we share truth for right.
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> Please respond to jdecker@keelynet.com
> as I am writing from my work email of
> jwdatwork@yahoo.com.........thanks!
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